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What it's like to sail the BVIs aboard a live-aboard sailboat.

 

Sailing the BVIs!
Surviving and Thriving On a Live-Aboard Sailboat


Navigating the BVIs provides rewards like the beautiful Baths on Virgin Gorda.

"Sailing Life is What I Choose,
Imported Rum is My Kind of Booze
...

Sailing Life is Made For Me,
I Raise My Spinnaker and I'm Free..."
- Singer Eric Stone

The water is blue – many shades of blue, in fact – the wind is blowing but hardly howling, captain and crew are going "fast enough to get there but slow enough to see" as the Jimmy Buffett song possibly playing on the stereo says, and there's plenty of rum on board.

It's just another idillic day aboard a sailboat in the British Virgin Islands.

Tips for Sailing the BVIs

• There are flights directly into Tortola.
• Most charters are catamaran sailboats. Those bigger than 50 feet require a paid skipper.
• Stock the boat at the dock before departure. Tortola offers the biggest markets, which deliver to the boats. Other marinas have smaller markets with varying prices.
• Many charters do not allow for night sailing, so have the boat moored before dark.
•  All establishments take US dollars. Not all establishments take credit cards.
• The islands are close to one another and ports are easy to reach; the longest sail is about three hours to Anegada.
• Winds are steady from the East and seas are rarely heavy.
• Eating fish caught near the islands is not safe. However, it is okay from the open ocean.
• Life in the islands moves at a "Caribbean pace." Be patient. What's the hurry, anyway?
•  It is possible to keep in touch with the world with cell phones an Internet, the latter through Internet cafes, a signal through a paid subscription (do this before getting to the BVIs) or via satellite (special set-up required).
• Always check your latitude but don't bring the attitude.
• For where to best enjoy the rum, see PubClub's article on the Bars of the BVI.

This is more than an island paradise. It's an island-hopping paradise. Wake up in Soper's Hole – where Blackbeard used to hang out before making pirate raids – and go to sleep under the stars in Cane Garden Bay, a place Buffett so accurately portrayed in one of his original sailing songs, Manana.

In between, there is diving the chimneys, snorkeling the caves, wading through the Baths, diving off Willie T's and killing pain with the Painkiller, the local drink served at spots like the Soggy Dollar Bar, where dollars are soggy because boats anchor in the harbor and crews swim to the beach.

This kind of sailing life is made for just about anyone.

This article is all about that sailing live, providing information and photos about sailing the British Virgin Islands.

Chartering
A Sailboat

Boats are chartered from various locations throughout the BVIs. The primary port of departure is Tortola with its ample number of chartering companies. It is easy to stock the boats with provisions from here; order in advance and the bigger companies deliver right to the dock (the charter company can make the arrangements). Additional daily provisions can be found at just about every harbor. And the bartering system with other boats is alive and well in the BVI.

Boat prices range from about $5,000-10,000, depending on the size and type of vessel and the length of the journey.

One recommended addition for any boat is a bartender. Bring your own, and if you are lucky, he/she will be a rum-loving fool like Luau Larry, who serves as "mixologist" on PubClub.com's island adventures.


"Sailing Live is What I Choose, Imported Rum is My Kind of Booze" indeed.


Having a mixologist ike Luau Larryon board lis highly recommended.

Sailing the BVIs – The Islands


The Baths are beautiful and sunsets on Anegada are an end to the perfect island day.

"We hit the beach in Anegada
To catch our breath and catch some rays.
And watch the suns
et on the water,
To end the perfect island day..."
- Singer Eric Stone

The sunsets on Anegada are like a painting.

The Baths on Virgin Gorda are the most beautiful place in the entire BVIs.

Then again, the most beautiful place could be the Bitter End Yacht Club elsewhere on Virgin Gorda.

The best daytime bar is the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke. Then again it could be the Cow Wreck on Anegada.


Life on board a catamaran involves dropping hooks and hanging out.

Whichever way the skipper sets sail for in the BVIs is sure to bring smiles to the faces of the crew. What's best, the close proximity of the islands to each other means it's possible to do just about everything in a relatively short timeframe. A week is enough to take it all in at a Caribbean pace, 10 days is probably the ideal sailing time and two weeks is dangerously close to contacting the Caribbean equivalent of what in Key West is known as "Keys Disease."


Putting a hook in Jost Van Dyke, but does it look like he's worried if it catches?

There are many "must see, must do" locations in the BVIs. They include:
• The Baths, Virgin Gorda. Big rock formations sit along the shoreline adjacent to a gorgeous, soft-sand beach. Over time, the ocean has eroded the boulders to the point they form a Caribbean version of the Turkish baths, allowing for ankle-deep exploring. It's an up-and-down, minimally-marked adventure. The rewards include Devil's Beach, a near-private cove with water so clear it's easy to see the angelfish swimming without a mask. The eventual destination is the Top of the Baths, a restaurant/bar with a view of all below.
• Bitter End Yacht Club, Virgin Gorda. A high-end resort, the Bitter End is a located in the beautiful – make that jaw-dropping gorgeous – northeastern part of the island. This is apparent from the moment of the approach (careful of the marked reef). Thatched huts peek out from the wooded hills and a sailor's delight awaits – a dock with overnight docking! On shore, the Emporium Pub serves potent 16-ounce rum punches, mangroves by the pool area provide stunning views and a scenic and delicious meal awaits at adjacent Saba Rock.
• Sunsets and the Cow Wreck Bar, Anegada
. The longest sail in the BVIs – about three hours – is worth it. Grab a mooring ball at Pomato Point, dingy ashore to the Anegada Reef Club and Hotel and catch a cab to the Cow Wreck. Anegada is as renowned for its lobster and the lobster salad sandwiches here are fantastic. So, too, is the setting: right on a white sand beach with windsurfers cutting up the ocean in the eye's frame. Then, hustle back for sunset because, as Eric Stone sings, it's an end to the perfect island day. Be careful of the "single-file" marked reef.


• The Caves and Willie T's, Norman Island. A superb snorkeling spot, the Caves are a pair of entrances into the side of a cliff. Snorkelers are surrounded by colorful fish the moment they jump into the clear, aqua-blue water. Don't be startled by the gigantic barracuda; he's seen it all and is not interested in you. Do this in the late afternoon and then 'round the bend to Willie T's, the anchored pirate ship where people gather at Happy Hour to drink like fish and jump off the railing into the water below. Often in the nude.
• The Soggy Dollar Bar and Foxy's, Jost Van Dyke. The sun-spectacular Soggy Dollar Bar sits behind a glistening beach framed by palm trees and surrounded by an aqua-blue bay. It created the painkiller (served in souvenir plastic cups), drawing boats from throughout the Virgin Islands. And just down the beach, Gertrude's makes the best (original?) bushwhacker in the islands. Around the corner, the legendary Foxy's is, quite simply, a party.
• Sandy Spit, off Jost Van Dyke. A spit of an island, it's a tiny piece of paradise ringed by a powder white-sand beach. Set the anchor and snorkle ashore. Sure, Sandy Spit can be circumnavigated in about a minute and the snorkeling is far from spectacular. But the place is ideal for swimming, sunning and enjoying the fact that you are here.
• And, of course, the bars. PubClub.com has compiled a detailed article on where to find the best bars and party locations in the British Virgin Islands.
The Bars of the BVI.

Sailing the BVIs – The Challenges and Rewards


Think they are on island time? You bet ya!

Sailing the British Virgin Islands is an experience. A journey. The "vacation of a lifetime."

But it's not all beaches and rum.

There are inherent challenges in living with people in a confined space, whether it's two or 10 on board. And not every convenience of modern-day life is readily available. Fresh water is a constant concern. Bathroom facilities are cramped and offer little privacy. Someone may break out your favorite cheese and crackers for a mid-day snack when you were saving it for a more special time.

The key to thriving – and for some surviving – it to be able to adapt to the circumstances of the islands. Take what's available on shore (or the boat) when what you may desire is not available. Accepting mango when what you really want is orange juice, for instance. In football, this is known as taking what the defense gives you.

Then there's the point of getting along with one's boatmates. Avoid drama and let any small issues roll off the shoulder. Define a role for yourself and stick to it, but also be sure to chip in with the chores. After a while, aboard a good boat with a good crew, the camaraderie will start flowing like the endless island rum. And that, quite frankly, is the best part of sailing the BVIs.


It's okay to eat fish in the open ocean, but not caught around the islands.


Luau Larry, at home with his "Luau Larry Special" rum drink.


The camaraderie among boatmates makes the BVIs a journey and adventure.

– The Caribbean Lifestyle and Culture –

This brief story shall tell anyone all they need to know about the Caribbean lifestyle and culture.

The lesson to be learned is simple: Don't be in a hurry and do things the locals' way at the locals' pace. Things will happen their way at their pace, anyway, so why resist?

This tale of the seas is from The Bartender, PubClub columnist, during the BVI Interline Regatta, Oct. 2007:

"It was the day before departure and I was at the Nanny Cay market picking up a few last-minute provisions. Beer, rum, juice, etc. And ice. I paid for the ice and was told to go outside and wait; someone would bring it to me shortly.

"Shortly in the Caribbean on this particular day was half an hour. Then I was told I could have no ice. The conversation went something like this:

'I can't give you no ice, mon.'

'I paid for it inside. Five bags.'

'But I can't give you no ice, mon.'

'I paid for it inside.'

'You can only get ice from the other place. I can't give you no ice, mon.'

'What other place?'

'The one down there (he points). You buy it from there until they close. Then you can buy it from me.'

'When do they close?'

'Sometime later, mon.'

"And so it went. Eventually, I got my ice. And I walked away smiling, for I knew I was in the Caribbean. And then there's the story of a boatmate's lost luggage..."


Worn out from his ice experience, PubClub.com's columnist sleeps when – and where – he can in the BVIs.


More BVI Artilces: The Bars of the BVI