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A locals' look at what's happening and where to make it happen in the Super Bowl XXXVIX host city, plus Daytona Beach and Orlando.

Welcome to Jacksonville!
A Guide to the City, Nightlife and Entertainment

A city of bridges and beaches, Jacksonville is hosting sports' biggest party.

The largest metropolitan area in the U.S., where the river that cuts through downtown runs backward and the beaches dominate the social landscape, Jacksonville, FL, is a big city with a small-town heart.

This gives it a bit of an identity crisis, especially within its home state.

Jacksonville is in Florida, though being tucked into the northeast corner more closely identifies it with another state, Georgia. It has an NFL franchise, is home to the PGA Tour, can boast about beaches, sunshine and palm trees, but is seldom mentioned in the same breath as Ft. Lauderdale, Miami, Tampa or even Destin as a prime destination in the Sunshine State.

Yet Jacksonville does have a feather to stick in its cap, besides its down-home feel in the framework of a large city. On Feb. 6, 2005, the Little City That Could hosted the world's biggest sporting event, Super Bowl XXXIX.

And, much like native sons Lynyrd Skynard, it's no one-hit wonder. So be a free bird and read on to learn about this city, its bars and nightlife and sightseeing activities.

Jacksonville General Information: An Overview [MAP]

Downtown has an attractive skyline, but the beaches have the action.

Jacksonville is indeed the USA's largest city, though with a metro population of just 1.2 milltion, it's the size that counts. The city limits start almost at the Florida-Georgia border and continues for some 70 miles to the south.

Downtown Jacksonville is at the intersections of I-10 to the west and I-95 to the north and south. But it's the suburbs and particularly the beaches that contain the most activity. In fact, PubClub recommends staying in Atlantic or Jacksonville beach, which is 20+ minutes from downtown. Other than a nice stroll along that river that runs backward, the St. Johns, there's little to do downtown day or night. Exceptions are concerts at Veterans Memorial Arena and games for the NFL's Jacksonville Jaguars, the AA Dodgers affiliate Jacksonville Sun in a gorgeous new ballpark and the minor league hockey team Barracudas.

To the north is exclusive Amelia Island (home to the annual Women's Tennis Association's Bausch & Lomb tournament, April 3-9) and to the south, the country's oldest city, St. Augustine. Golf is so big the PGA Tour has its headquarters here; the TPC at Sawgrass tournament (March 23-26) with the famed "island green" is in Ponte Vedra, Jacksonville's southernmost beach. The area has 72 courses.

The city also hosts college football's annual Gator Bowl (New Year's Day) and the Georgia-Florida game each October, known by Dawgs and Gators as "The World's Largest Outdoor Cocktail Party."

Jacksonville International Airport is 12 miles from downtown ($20 cab ride, approximately $40-50 to the beaches).

Nightlife

Nights on the town in Jax can prove to be entertaining.

Lynard Skynard is from here, as is 38 Special. So the place knows how to party.

But so is Slim Whitman.

Nightlife in Jacksonville can definitely be rocking, but for super-clubbers it can also be like a waltz. Most places are casual bars with a blue jeans crowd. The bars have been around seemingly forever and are not going anywhere anytime soon. People know them well and locals are regulars at their regular places.

Closing time is 2 a.m., with "drink 'em if you've got 'em" between 1:30-1:45, depending on the place.

Cabs can be extremely hard to flag down, but any bar will call one for those smart enough not to drink and drive.

Atlantic Beach Bars [MAP]

The mecca corner of Atlantic Beach – the nightlife is steps away.

There are two main areas of Jacksonville's bar activity, and they are located just two miles from one another: Atlantic Beach (Neptune Beach is, oddly, in the same area) and Jacksonville Beach. Not to be confusing, but Jax Beaches are actually four separate "cities." From north to south it's Atlantic Beach (Ragtime), Neptune Beach (Sun Dog), Jax Beach (the Ritz, Ocean Club), and Ponte Vedra Beach (the snobs). For most people, as George Thoroughgood would say, "That don't confront me."

Atlantic Beach's bars are on a single corner, just in fron the ocean, at First and Atlantic Blvd. Give anyone three steps, and it's off to the next place.

The bars here are just that – bars. Attire other than jeans or shorts is considered high fashion. The going-out crowd is late 20s to 40ish and largely single. A couple of places have live music and never a cover.

Certainly don't expect a cover at our favorite place. It's Pete's Bar, a dive that practically demands drinking PBR. As far as dives go, it's quite large – two rooms with a long bar sandwiching another with pool (for a quarter!), ping-pong and foosball tables. There's no non-smoking laws in Jacksonville and Pete's is as smoky as a barbecue pit. The crowd is a mix of old-time drinkers, spouces escaping their troubled homelife (for a night, anyway) and enthusiastic youths who just love the non-pretentious atmosphere. Pete's is a favorite haunt of novelest John Gresham, who doesn't waste time getting here while in town; he stays right next door at the Sea Trutle Inn. Pete's is better as a last stop than a first stop; it's much more lively after midnight than before, except for those who like to see – or join – those regulars with their heads on the bar.

Elsewhere, it's a dog's life. At least at The Sun Dog, a classic locals' hangout. "The Dog," to use its more commonly referred name, has live bands in an art deco setting and one of the more lively mingling scenes in town. It's an anchor bar of the entire city, a place to go any night, any time. It's also one of the beach area's top dinner destinations.

For those who are barking up the wrong tree at "the Dog," Sunny Caribbee is a small, well-worn joint to stir a bit of one's Caribbean soul. It's a few steps above the other spots (it's on the second level above the Dog).

If anything passes for upscale here, it's Ragtime Tavern. A Cajun restaurant/bar, it brews it's own beer and offers a more casual, sit-down existence than its counterparts across the street. Live bands Wednesday-Sunday.

In the summer, the Sea Horse Inn (located next to the nicer Sea Turtle) jams with a reggae band and a hot crowd on Sunday afternoons.

Jacksonville Beach Bars [MAP]

The crowds in this bar town are casual in thier demeanor and dress.

Nearly identical in crowd and bar-hopping ease to Atlantic Beach, Jacksonville Beach offers more options than it's sandy neighbor to the north.

A good place to start – or finish - is Lynch's Irish Pub, a friendly establishment with a crowd most likely to be throwing down the local specialty, the Red Snapper (amaretto, raspberry and Crown). Perhaps that's because it's only $3.25 a shot – and just $2.50 on Wednesdays. It's also a good beer-drinking place.

People at LIP tend to hang rather than mingle. For the latter type of activity, The Ritz fulfills all needs. While the name implies a ritzy glamor bar at an upscale hotel, the Ritz is a fairly basic bar with a pair of pool tables and juke box. It's the crowd that makes it go off, which it does on weekends and Wednesdays when beers are as cheap as a buck (arrive before 11). It's mainly a 30s crowd looking for lust, love or, on occasion, simply socializng.

There is a quirk to the Ritz, however. It has such a local crowd that strangers can be singled out and escorted right out the door for no reason, particularly if they are enjoying joyful conversations with the regular talent. Sometimes, the Ritz will be putting you on instead of the other way around.

A younger crowd prefers the dancing at Ocean Club. The hot dance floor gets going with a DJ and the beachfront deck is an ideal conversation break/hangout spot. Some nights, it features live bands. Thursdays is college night with $2 anything until midnight and $3 after midnight.

The Atlantic is another 20s hangout, a bar/club that's popular with locals, especially the patio bar. A DJ or live music provides tunes.

Live music lovers like Freebird Live, and if the name strikes a chord, yes it's taken from the signature song of Jacksonville's own Southern rockers, Lynyrd Skynard. The band started playing in Jax Beach and its gold records are mounted on the brick walls. While the image is of a run-down rock 'n roll joint with bad carpet and smells of beer spills, this is actually a nice place. Live bands and cover varies.

For sports, the mega-bar Sneakers Sports Grille offers it all. Entering it is almost like walking into a Vegas sportsbook, except this place has many more TVs (and no casino, of course). In fact, Sneakers has big screens on steroids, at least a half-dozen of them strategically placed around the bar for maximum viewing. If it's kicked, hit, passed, punted, raced or run, it's shown here. Bonus points for the waitresses being dressed as cheerleaders.

It's down the road in a shopping center (a $5-6 cab ride) and hardly worth bypassing the Main Street action on a hot night, but on Thursdays the otherwise non-descript (other than to say it's a bar in a shopping center) Monkey's Uncle can be quite entertaining on Thursdays when well-fueled amateur singers take the stage for Karaoke.

Other Nightlife Highlights

There is a club scene in Jax and it's at Plush, a former cinema that is now a two-level club on University Ave., near Jacksonville University. Plush is Jacksonville's mega club with a massive dance floor, mirrors, couches, DJ and VIP room. Those who don't like to dance lounge at the Leopard Lounge, which has its own music and mainly a 30s crowd as opposed to Plush's 20s. Open Thursday's-Saturdays.

Bourbon Street Station (ahh, just the name makes us smile) in Jacksonville's Southside jams in the crowds. It has five different rooms featuring 80s music, country, Karaoke and a piano bar. Thursday is its hottest night.

In San Marco, Endo Exo is a bar/club with live music indoors and out in a European atmosphere.

An area known as 5 Points is a funky area near downtown in the historic district. It has vintage clothing stores, coffee houses, etc. Club life includes Club 5 – a Jax club icon and mecca for live bands, Fuel and Starlite Café.  In the Avoldale district – known more for upscale restaurants and shops – is Casbah Cafe, a middle-eastern "hookah" lounge where you order hookah pipes and listen to middle-eastern pop-rock and watch belly dancers. It's very big right now with the 20's and 30's crowd. 

On game days, as well as for concerts, Amsterdam Sky Cafe is conveniently located next to Veteran's Memorial Arena. It's a clean pub with a patio and good food and a DJ at night; after hockey games they often clear out the tables and let the crowd cut loose.

On Sundays, the place to be other than the Sea Horse is the Coach House at the Casablanca Inn in St. Augustine. Right on the water, this is a true Florida bar where people pull up to the dock in their boats and live reggae keeps the large crowds dancing and drinking.

Sightseeing and Tourist Activities

The largest city in the US has the largest urban park system in the United States, providing services at more than 350 locations located on more than 6,000 acres. It includes oceanfront parks, nature parks, neighborhood parks, community centers, special programs, swimming pools and boat ramps.

The Talbot Island State Park is a series of barrier islands with beaches, kayaking, horseback riding, fishing, camping, hiking, nature trails, and picnic pavilions. Free access, open 8 a.m.-sunset. Timucuan Ecological and Historical Preserve is unspoiled Florida with manatees, dolphins, bald eagles, ospres, blue herons and oyster beds are among the viewing. Canoe, boat or kayak through some of its 46,000 acres. Free access, open 9 a.m.-4:45 p.m.

As we've mentioned earlier, St. Augustine is a short drive to the South. Established in 1565 – ots hard to believe anything in this country is that old – St. Augustine has the Fort Castillo de San Marcos, the signature Bridge of Lions, museums, shopping and 100+ restaurants.

The Okefenokee Swam Park, set of 10 major motion pictures, is a famous swamp one hour northwest of Jacksonville in Waycross, GA.

Naturally, with the beaches, there's all the associated activities such as swimming, biking, rollerblading or just tanning.

Jacksonville Resource Guide

Daytona Beach/Cocoa Beach

PubClub likes to "hit the Deck" while in Daytona Beach.

Two hours south of Jacksonville is an old biker and racin' town, Daytona Beach. Stock cars used to run races right on the wide, hard-packed beach. Today, that's contested at the massive Daytona International Speedway, which hosts three main events (the Rolex 24 sports car endurance event the first of February; Daytona 500, two weeks later and the Firecracker 400, July 4).The Harley hogs ride into town each February or March for Bike Week. In March and April, college students cram the beach and the hotel pools for Spring Break.

And through it all, the Ocean Deck keeps going and the reggae band Caribbean Posse keeps playing. The band has been at it every night for 10+ years and The Deck has been going even longer. Right on the beach just south of the pier, it's a local institution and one of the World's Best Bars, according to PubClub's traveling party columnist, The Bartender. Another of his favorite Daytona haunts is the Oyster Pub (Seabreeze and A1A), best as a warmup before "hitting The Deck." Spring breakers also fill up Razzles, which has been going strong for years (next to the Oyster Pub) and 600 North, a new mega-club that also sports the biggest pool deck in Daytona. And they are all right there together. Daytona is a legendary Spring Break party spot.

One more hour to the South is Cocoa Beach, which is adjacent to the Kennedy Space Center, home of the Space Shuttle launches. TVLand fans and 60s comedy TV show buffs will know it as the home of Major Nelson in the sitcom "I Dream of Jeanie." Travelers down I-95 will know it for Ron Jon's Surf Shop; it's pretty famous already but road signs every other mile make sure no one can deny its existence. Cocoa's best bar is right on the beach with a huge wooden deck facing the ocean, Coconuts.

Daytona/Cocoa Beach Resource Guide

Orlando

An amusement paradise, Orlando is about two hours southeast of Jacksonville. Navigating through the endless stream of strollers that swamp the theme parks, it it still possible to find something resembling nightlife in this central Florida city.

Universal CityWalk (I-4 at exit 75A) is like a shopping mall of bars. It offers drinks to go, sidewalk cocktail stands and several places within a confined area, many offering live music at night. There's a massive and beautiful Hard Rock Cafe, which features once big-name acts like Joe Cocker; the Hard Rock for Parrotheads, Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville (it's not on the menu, but go for "the Perfect Margarita"); Bob Marley, A Tribute to Freedom; Pat O'Brien's (actually, we would prefer to be at the real one in New Orleans); the Latin Quarter with salsa dancing; and City Jazz jazz club, which also contains a comedy club. There's even a nightclub, the groove.

Just off Margaritaville's "porch of indecision" is the Lone Palm tiki bar, a hut with boat drinks and tables in the sand by a river that runs through CityWalk.

Bands take the stage at the bars around 9 most nights – band time – and this triggers a $5 cover (a "party pass" for $9.95 covers all the bars). This is even the case at Margaritaville, which initially stuns a few unsuspecting tourists who just want to settle in for a frozen concoction or two. An alternative is to already be in a place before 9; be sure and get a handstamp if leaving. Frankly, when it comes to Margaritaville, PubClub would prefer to throw the band overboard and just enjoy the videos with the accompanying Buffett music. With the band, Margaritaville is just another bar.

For food, there's a NASCAR Cafe, an NBA Cafe (we're turned off by the league these days, but this place does has pop-a-shot with 10-foot goals) and Emril's, plus fast food choices.

The CityWalk crowd is mainly a collection of tourists taking a break from the heat or looking for a meal, very young locals (it's a haven for highschoolers) and business travelers anxious to break loose after three-day conventions. So it's hardly South Beach, but at least it's not Sebring, either (don't ask).

Still, there's a party here somewhere. Rollins College, a water ski school, is one of our Top (Small) Party Schools and University of Central Florida (UCF) students continually e-mail us to add their school to the list. They tell us a place called the Liquid Cellar, which runs tabs for students they don't have to pay off until the end of each semester, is good any night of the week.

As for where to stay, International Blvd., offers plenty of accommodations. Some are short walks (15-20 minutes) to CityWalk and go for as little as $45 a night. A free trolley goes up and down International Blvd., which is a seemingly endless line of "stuff" – amusement areas, tourist shops, food places and a massive outlet mall.

Orlando Resource Guide

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