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Welcome to Athens!
The Host City to the 2004 Summer Olympic Games Still Welcomes
Visitors
Athens is proud
of its history, but also shines in the modern era.
The ancient city is the Gateway to Greece and
was the host city for the successful 2004 Summer Olympic Games. Well,
it's only fitting, considering the Games were created here.
Most travelers traditionally use Athens as a gateway to the islands.
First-timers spend two or three days in the ancient city, see the sites,
complain about the congestion then head to the islands. After a couple
of days on, say, Mykonos,
they look at each other and say, "Why did we spend so much time in Athens
instead of coming here first?"
To many, spending time in Athens is like being in downtown Los Angeles.
It can seem no different than any other big city. And while it's true
that the greatest riches of Greece are on its islands, Athens is a very
beautiful place in its own right.
Spending time in Athens demonstrates why things are the way they are
on the islands. The late-night mentality, the seemingly chaotic method
of movement of the people and kiosks selling beer, water, soda, cigarettes
and other small items are on nearly every streetcorner.
For the best of Athens, get away from the tourist-heavy city center
and the Plaka and instead explore the area around the port of Pireaus.
Arrival and Getting Around
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Gold
Medal Olympic GamesViewing Tips
The Games Are Gone But The Tips are Tops
• Security is tight at any Olympic Games, so streamline the
process by streamlining your belongings.
• THE must-see event is the track-and-field final day (Summer
Olympics). Everything is for the Gold. Other top spectator events
are swimming weightlifting (for the psyching out strategies),
and track cycling.
• A must-miss event is diving. It's expensive and over so
quickly it's impossible to see anything.
•The Opening and Closing ceremonies are must-see events for
those with an unlimited budget. Others are advised to use their
funds for the events.
• Attend a prelim event featuring Brazil, which has the most
passionate fans.
• Ticket swapping is an Olympics tradition. Be prepared
to get tickets anywhere and always carry a venue map to verify
ticket seat locations. Also carry a schedule of events and be
sure there's enough time to get from one event to another.
• Bring things to give away. Pins are a big item. Collect
all you can; they are used for barter, buttering up someone, perhaps
even beer. Also have personal "business" cards for keeping
in touch with all the people you'll meet.
• Use ATMs for cash.
• Check out PubClub's articles
from Athens from The Games.
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The Olympics prompted Athens to build a sparkling new airport. That
may be hard to believe for those who visited the old airport, but it's
true.
The problem is the location, far outside of town. It's about 45 minutes
to Plaka by car. Taxis are .26 Euros in the city limits, 50 outside
the city limits, a 75 Euro start fee and a "night tarrif"
(2400 to 0500) of .50 Euros.
The new Metro (see more, below) goes almost right to the gates. However,
when riding, get all the tickets you need in advance, one for each transfer.
Police ticket people on the platforms for not having enough tickets,
an effective way of putting 10 Euros in somebody's pocket (it
take two tickets from Syntagma Square, for instance). The train runs
all over the city and also to the port of Pireaus where ships go to
the islands. It's .70 Euros for each transfer.
For groups of travelers, taxis are a quick and and not outrageously
inexpensive method of getting around Athens. Just be sure and negotiate
the rate before departure.
It's a good hour-plus into town from the new Athens airport. Budget
travelers should use the new train or bus; four public bus routes serve
exclusively the airport, connecting the greater area of Athens and Piraeus
(2.90 Euros). For those staying instead of headed to theislands, the
stop at Syntagma Square is centrally located. From that point,
it's a five-minute walk to the youth hostel and the Plaka.
There's aforementioned Metro, which is clean, safe and efficient.
Look for the letter M and stations are clearly marked with signs in
blue, white and green with the M. Don't even consider renting a car.
NOTE: For those coming from Pireaus, the train station is directly
across the street from the port entrance. It's not marked and what few
signs are posted are in Greek. Getting there requires navigating six
lanes of a very busy street with no crosswalk. There is, fortunately,
a median though it's narrow and crowded.
Currently, the Metro from the airport is in combination with the bus
system as follows: Metro line 3: "Ethniki Amina" station - Express bus
E94. Metro line 2 & 3: "Syntagma" station - Express bus E95. Athens
- Piraeus Electric Subway: "Stadium of Peace and Friendship" station
- Express bus 9.6 Euros.
Besides Syntagma Square, the Metro's other main stop is the Acropolis
which, during the Metro's construction, uncovered ancient ruins. The
Metro has a web
site; be patient, though (this trait comes in handy in Greece).
Athens has opened a new airport, Eleftherios Venizelos International,
and while PubClub.com has not yet flown there, it has to be an improvement
over its predecessor. Actually, there were two airports, one for international
travel and one for domestic departures. Illogically, they were not located
anywhere near each other; buses and taxis provide service between the
two. We trust the new airport has improved on this situation (although
we will miss the ice-cold beers for 300dr. served at a little stand
outside the old domestic terminal. Interestingly, this is where handball,
fencing and even kayaking and canoeing are taking place during the Olympics).
For those heading out to the islands by boat, cold beers await your
arrival at the ferry port, Piraeus (Pie-ray-us). Airplane arrivals
and ferry departures are not at all coordinated, so the wait could be
a few hours. Fortunately, the beers are cheap and chilly. Taxi fare
is approximately 15 Euros for the half-hour-plus journey. If taking
a taxi, be sure and specify Pireaus as your destination; otherwise the
driver may misunderstand your instructions.
Dining, Shopping and Neighborhoods
Dining outside at
a Greek taverna is a nightly ritual.
The entrance to
the famous and popular Athens Market.
Athens is a sprawling city, a massive
maze of confusing streets, zipping traffic moving at high speeds in
all directions and containing signs in those Greek symbols that render
any college fraternity education useless. So, stick to these places.
Use Syntagma Square as the central gathering spot and landmark. There's
a changing of the guard (or evzones) who wear kilts, big white shirts
and large pom-poms on their shoes. Syntagma Square is near a popular
hostel and across the street from the regal Grande Bretagne Hotel, whiere
a drink in its Winter Garden bar runs about 12 Euros but provides for
great people-watching. The rooftop restaurant has stunning views of
the Acropolis, which is illuminated at night. Around the corner is the
National Garden, a pleasant enough place to spend a few minutes
to an hour.
A few paces down Ermou Street is Monastiraki Square, where locals
– and not tourists – dine Gree-style at tavernas (which is
to say they eat a lot, drink even more and treat this like a rare night
on the town).
Another nearby area is Kolonaki Square has upscale shops, galleries,
restaurants and sidewalk tavernas. Dining is typical European, which
is to say late by American standards.Nothing before 10 p.m. and by 11
the restaurants are swarming with patrons.
As for what to expect with Greek food, stuffed grape leaves
(dolmades), and tzatziki (a yogurt, cucumber and garlic dip
served with pita or white bread) and Greek salads (huge chunks
of tomato, cucumber, onions and olives sprinkled with feta cheese) make
for great appetizers. Main courses can be lamb, stuffed tomatoes,
soulvaki (huge chunks of meat on a skewer with vegetables and served
with rice) or moussaka (the Greek version of lasagna). Seafood
is available everywhere, particularly fish.
The Greeks attribute olive oil to their long and healthy life expectancy
and a result, dishes are swimming in the stuff. Greek coffee
will turn American's heads sideways and the only alternative is Sanka.
Bakeries offering meat and cheese-filled pastries are plentiful
and family-run gyro shops are the taco stands of Greece
Greek wines are enjoyable but avoid the Restina. It has an aftertaste
that will last a lifetime. And contrary to popular belief, Greeks rarely
drink ouzo.
Pub Clubbing – Bar & Nightlife Guide
Watch out for the
ouzo – not even the Greeks drink it.
The hidden jewel of Athens – at
least to most travelers – is the area along the beach in Glyfada
near the old airport and on Possidonos Ave. In fact, the entire
area from the port of Pireaus to the old airport is lined with waterfront
dance clubs, many of which are indoor-outdoor. Note they don't start
cranking until midnight and are open until 4 a.m.
Their names change each summer, but often the locations remain the
same. For instance, last year's hottest club is gone but one of the
best ones this summer, Sabbia, is located in the same building.
This summer's top club is Paradizzio in the Varkiza area.
It brings in top deejays from London, New York and other major cities
and holds a whopping 3,000 night owls. Prime is another popular
dance spot.
Yet another hot club for the "in" crowd is the 2,000-capacity
Envy in Voula. It's always crowded with a young crowd.
These Athens clubs usually require slacks for men, and 15-20 Euro cover
charge (drinks prices are in the same range) but once you swallow the
tab, the beachside atmosphere is quite riveting. Any taxi driver knows
the location of these clubs.
A more casual alternative – and certainly a great option
for those with a few hours to spend between ferry departures and a flight
– are a pair of harbors a safe, 15-minute walk from Pireaus.
(Just head straight out towards the tallest building and turn right
eight lights later on Ger. Lambraski at the Levis store). Surrounding
a beautiful harbor area are a series of cafes and restaurants and clubs.
For tasty food in a friendly atmosphere, the Collection Barbecue
Caffe serves grilled meats with ice-cold draft beer and rock music
supplied by a hip deejay. The top club in the area is Ttassagiloui.
The Metro goes there and nine cruise ships will serve as hotels during
the Olympics. This is the most "Greek Islands" atmosphere
in all of Athens – small stands selling light snacks and beverages
(and yes, beer), an endless buzz of mopeds zipping through the streets
and a hip casualness to the whole place.
There are also a few clubs around the Plaka and also a pretty good
local scene around the corner from the Athens Hilton. Pick the
ones with the most activity, although some have a locals-only policy.The
Hilton is the host hotel of the Olympic committee.
Beware of These Tourist Trap Bars
Be wary of bars in touristy areas (Plaka)
that have few patrons and an overly-friendly doorman. If you are a male
and a women approaches out of nowhere and asks to buy her a drink, don't
be fooled into thinking she believes you to be Atlas and she Athena
and that you will soon be invited back to her Parthanon. You will get
screwed all right, but not the way in which you would like to tell later
over drinks with your friends.
Talk about a real-life Greek tragedy. The drink will be something
like a 150 Euro bottle of champagne, the conversation will be as shallow
as the ferry harbor and the girl will disappear the second her glass
is empty. You will get no sympathy from the club owner or bartender
because they are also in on the scam. It's a situation that is not rampant
in Athens but it does exist. So, buyer beware.
The Ancient Sites
Inside the Acropolis,
the city's landmark attraction.
Looking up to the
Acropolis, which actually means the city's highest point.
The Acropolis, which is not actually
a site but a term for the highest point in the city, is the centerpiece
of Athens' history. We will spare all the details, leaving that to other
web sites or books catering more to your parents, but the centerpiece
is the Parthenon; also check out the Acropolis Museum.
Visitors must now buy a $12 ticket that also includes, among other places,
the Roman Forum, Theater of Dionysos and Temple of Olympian Zeus.
At the base of the Acropolis is the Plaka, a touristy area
and about the only place in Greece where they still smash plates. Prices
reflect the clientele, but you can get a decent meal and have a few
drinks at one of the many outdoor tavernas while watching the comings-and-goings
of other travelers. This is about the only place in Greece where they
still break plates (shot glasses are another thing).Afterward, it's
worth cruising through the lighted streets for some shopping or browsing.
The official Olympics souvenir shop is located there.
The changing of
the guards in Syntagama Square.
A 15-minute walk from Plaka is the National Garden, worthy
of a look and perfect for a picnic (there are several grocery-type stores
in the area and a few in the Plaka). The National Garden is adjacent
to Syntagama Square where, if lucky, you will witness a traditional
changing of the guard.
At the far entrance to the garden, off Vasileos Konstaninou Street,
is Athens Stadium, which brings forth visions of past Olympians
running for glory. There's a nice little taverna there, as well. It's
close to another ruin, the Temple of the Olympian Zeus.
The Weather
When it comes to temperature, don't sweat
it. Oh, Athens can be hot, but it is in the heart of the Mediterranean
climate, which means no humidity and sometimes cool nights.Daytime temperatures
will are in the 90s and it's warm and sweaty, especially for those lugging
luggage. But it's not be sweltering.
Outside Athens
A fun place to visit outside of the city
is the small island of Hydra, accessible by ferry (four hours,
¤.10). Navigable only by foot or donkey, Hydra– pronounced Eeed-ra
– provides much more of a true Greek atmosphere than the tourist-pounded
Cyclades. There's a couple of tavernas and bars on the waterfront, but
the real prize is the disco at the top of the hill that features an
open-air dance floor. The drunken walk down the hill can be quite challenging,
but that's all a part of life on the Greek islands. Hydra is a good
place for a one-night stand.
 Next
stop on the Party Bus: Mykonos
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