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Getting to Know Greece and
the Greek Islands
Beautiful Mykonos
Harbor.
The lucky soul who coined the phrase
"not a worry in the world" was probably on an island in Greece when
he said it.
Island life is a utopian existence. This is the land of white-washed
buildings and deep blue seas. The contrast makes for stunning photographs
that are unmistakably Greece.
Narrow streets,
such as those here in Mykonos, are typically Greece.
Yet Greece's beauty is more than skin deep. When it comes to the pace
of the islands, Greece is a carbon copy of the Caribbean (except that
all the beaches are topless). The need to rush anywhere disappears the
minute one steps onto the ferry dock and the large, slow ship departs
for yet another destination.
Each island has a look and personality all its own. But the routine
is remarkably identical, especially when it comes to PubCubbing. It's
standard procedure to adopt the "meet in the daytime/meet out at night"
philosophy. Dinner isn't eaten before 10, bars are empty until 11 and
clubs don't get going until around 1 a.m.
Island Hopping
The freedom to roam throughout the islands is what a trip to Greece
is all about. If you don't like one island, or feel the urge to check
out a different one, simply pack up and go.
It's that easy. Most hotels operate on a "two-night minimum and whatever"
policy. So, if you wake up one morning on Mykonos and decide you want
to party on Ios the next, simply inform the staff of your plans. Then
again, if you have become as much a part of the decor as the neighborhood
cat, then sign up for additional days. The only restriction is the "one-day
rule," which means you must give your intentions to stay or leave one
day in advance.
This ripping off of the structural shackles makes for an incredibly
free-spirited holiday. It's common to leave a few friends behind on
one island in order to explore another, only to meet up with them a
few days later on yet another piece of paradise. Again, just as long
as you make the flight home, you're okay.
By Boat or by Plane?
In the words of the ultimate beach bum, songmaster Jimmy
Buffett, go fast enough to get there, but slow enough
to see.
The quickest method of island-hopping is by airplane, although not
all destinations have airports. Flights take a half-hour to an hour
and cost a semi-reasonable 100 or so Euros for a one-way ticket. If
you are flying out of Athens, make a reservation in advance as those
flights fill up quickly.
The planes are extremely crowded, the schedules are not well coordinated
with other flights or the ferries, the airport lines move at the pace
of a stalled moped and the seats are so tight you have sit like an ironing
board to keep from getting squished. (Plus, our own Bartender
still suffers from the aftertaste of hot orange juice
served on a flight three years ago). So, if you choose to take the plane,
you will suffer the pain.
A much more relaxed travel alternative is the ferry service.
Try stretching out
like this on an airplane.
These are not small, unstable craft, but huge liners the size of cruise
ships. For around 3000 drachs (we still can't get used to the Euro,
but it's about 10 of those things), depending on the length of the journey,
ferries provide one of the cheapest forms of entertainment in the world
– a leisurely cruise along the Aegean Sea.
Fill up the backpack with inexpensive beer or wine and a few snacks
at the dock and enjoy a picnic. Feel free to stretch out on the deck
benches for a relaxing nap. Try doing THAT on an airplane! The not-to-frequent
stops at other ports provide a glimpse at numerous islands along the
way; if one looks appealing, hop off and explore. Another ship will
likely arrive later or the next day.
The ferries also provide outstanding social opportunities with fellow
travelers. Drinking partners and even romances often begin on the high
seas of Greece.
The ferries can be smelly in the belly while you wait for the rear
door to swing down, the food is inedible and the toilets stink, but
these are minor inconveniences compared to the rewards of the journey.
Don't flaffel (Australian slang for goofing around), however; the ferries
rarely arrive on time, but when they are ready to go, they go in a hurry.
Estimated ferry travel times are as follows:
ª Athens to Mykonos 7 hours (good for resting after a long journey)
• Mykonos to Ios 4 hours
• Ios to Santorini 1 hour
• Athens to Santorini Take the plane
Hydrofoils are available in some areas and take half the time.
They are twice the price of the ferry and are considerably more noisy
and bumpy. In fact, a journey of more than two hours will likely bring
up thoughts like, "Why did I have that fourth Ouzo shot last night!?"
Basically the hydrofoil is like taking an airplane on the water, sans
the hot orange juice.
Use this rule of thumb when it comes to transportation: If the ferry
can get you to your destination in five or less hours, use it. If not,
fly like a bird. Use the hydrofoil only if a ferry or flight is not
available.
Mopeds
If you arrive in Greece via the Athens airport, you will inevitably
see a few folks headed home wrapped in bandages and hobbling around
on crutches. These people rented mopeds. When operated properly, mopeds
are the best method for touring the islands. They really don't go fast
enough – about 50 kph – to present any real danger by themselves,
but put them on a curvy, narrow road with big trucks, speeding cars
and fast motorcycles and they can turn an inexperienced rider into a
human caution flag.
Cruising thru the
islands on a moped is THE way to see Greece.
Mopeds can be rented on virtually every street corner – shop
around for the best price, usually about 15 Euros a day – with
no scrutiny regarding the renter's riding experience or skill (or lack
thereof). There are no lessons, no explanation of the traffic rules
and no road test. Just plunk down your drachmas (er, Euros), leave a
credit card for insurance purposes and head off to explore the shores.
The roads are curvy, narrow, bumpy and often hug cliffs without the
assistance of a guardrail, so use caution when riding.
Now that we've played mother by offering that fair (but friendly!)
warning, go ahead and enjoy the ride. Mopeds are restricted only to
your schedule, not the buses' and allow for stopping and see things
that those who rented cars are unable to even imagine. Some of the hills
are so steep you may have to pedal like Fred Flinstone in order to make
it to the top, but the reward will be an incredible view, a memorable
moment or an isolated taverna.
More details on moped adventures can be found in this
section of PubClub.com.
Rooms to Let
Only the geeks make reservations in Greece. There are few hotels and
none of those chains which are so prevalent in other parts of the world
(so forget about scoring any Marriott points on this trip). The bargaining
nature of the countrymen make it much more economical to work the deal
on the spot rather than to be locked into a fixed rate. Advance reservations
severely limit the spontaneity of island-hopping and even in the busiest
times, good, clean rooms can be found in minutes.
 Rooms,
and beds, are small but clean.
The Greeks see to this by sending hordes of locals to the docks and
airports hawking "rooms to let." These ancient sale representatives
– quite often the owner, but sometimes a relative – carry
a book of color photos showing off the "fine" accommodations they have
to offer. They will even drive you to the locations for a no-obligations
look.
This makes finding a room a snap. To further simplify matters, each
island also has a tourist office at the airport or ferry dock, although
hotels pay a fee for listings and the price, location and quality may
not equal opportunities off the ferry or plane.
Rooms are clean, though sparse. Even in expensive hotels, beds are
small, but you are not in Greece to get a mint under the pillow so don't
sweat it.
In most cases, you will have to turn a switch to ignite the hot water
heater. Give it about 10 minutes before jumping in the shower and be
sure to turn it off after everyone has finished. Otherwise, you will
have to confront an angry landlord in the morning.
Once in the shower, you will be fighting with a hand-held contraption
that serves as the shower head. It takes quite a bit of practice to
keep from flooding the bathroom, so keep towels, toilet paper and clothes
a safe distance away. Only in a few places have they thought to install
a bracket to hold it in place so it can be used like an upright shower.
Hotels usually keep the passport of their guests; this not a problem.
Hey, better them than you.
The Party Scene
Picture Spring Break, Carnival and New Year's Eve all rolled into
one. Add in some techno and that's a typical day in Greece. This is
a party place, no doubt about it. But for those romantic souls or others
looking to escape the next coming of social and sexual revolution by
hanging out on a remote patch of sand or quiet taverna, we just suggest
scrolling past this section.
The party begins
in the afternoon...
Life on the Greek Islands is wild. Every establishment has dancing
on the bars and many encourage it by actually lifting patrons up on
the counter. Wild music, wilder patrons and happy hosts that keep pouring
the fun showers visitors with encouragement to leave the inhibitions
at home. The happy guests glady comply.
...and continues
well into the night.
This revelry goes back to the days when Socrates was throwing wild
bashes under the guise of "scholarly gatherings." The Greeks have been
going at it ever since. Today, all we have to do is join the party.
Actually, the Greeks pretty much just host the show. Aside from Mykonos
on the weekend, about the only Greeks visitors encounter are at the
hotel and owners of the tavernas (as well as they guy on the donkey
you almost trampled with your moped).
The energy at night is dazzling. As many people dance on the bars,
tables and chairs as on the floor. The music is blaring, lights are
flashing and people are dancing and laughing everywhere. It's not uncommon
for sweat-stained clothes to be tossed around the bar.
 Not
surprisingly, these activities are accelerated by mass consumption of
alcohol. While not unique to Greece, it does seem to reach new levels
here.
People get so wasted, they must leave their room keys to the front
desk when they go out because the hoteliers got tired of retreiving
them all over town. This eliminated one party obstacle, but others remain.
Steep hills and maze-like streets make for a confusing trip home at
night. A few guidebooks recommend packing a small flashlight to help
navigate the steep terrain after dark, but that can't help anyone walk
straight or keep from getting lost. It's better to memorize the path
back home before getting smashed.
Surprisingly few bars play Greek music or offer traditional dances.
Instead, it's an international party with the techno cranked up as high
as the patrons.
Due to a strange Greek law, most of the dance clubs have cover charges
(usually in the 5-10 Euro range) but it is refunded at the bar in the
form of a "free" drink.
Beers are primarily Heineken and the tasty Amstel Lager but contrary
to popular belief, ouzo is not in high demand. In fact, the Greeks hardly
touch the stuff (they prefer Kamikazes). So what does that tell you
about the "national drink?" Ouzo looks like seawater and tastes
like Jagermeister but if you must insist on sampling it, mix it with
2/3 water.
Some of the bars put shot glasses in ice buckets on the counter. Patrons
get the entire shaker and obtain the necessary number of glasses from
the ice bucket. After consumption, the glasses are thrown to the ground
in firm affirmation of the poison's power.
Lost and Found
Centuries ago, pirates used many of the islands as commerce raiding
ports. On shore leave, they would go into the towns to rape and pillage.
(In one case, they killed all the men on an island, leaving only women.
The women eventually became frustrated and, well, one thing let to another.
The island? Lesbos.)
While at first the Greeks could offer only their terrible Restina wine
as a defense, they eventually resorted to constructing the towns into
a maze of pedestrian streets designed to confuse the enemy. It worked.
Unfortunately, it still works today. Modern-day pirates
often become just as lost as their bygone shipmates.
Mykonos is especially confounding. Everything looks the same and rookies
often spend hours looking like they are in a spinning class. Note the
landmarks, such as a taverna or gyro shop and, most importantly, get
to know the island while sober before doing those five tequila slammers
and trying to figure it out at 5 in the morning. Then test your newfound
skills by getting ripped at the closest bar.
Dress Codes
Shorts and t-shirts are accepted pretty much everywhere, but some
dance clubs require a collar. Men may choose to wear jeans or even slacks,
but with a lot of dancing in a crowded bar, things can get quite warm.
For club footwear, opt for a hiking-style boots rather than tennis shoes.
For women, sundresses are universally acceptable; spaghetti-string tops
with shorts or a skirt is a comfortable option.Sandals and other casual
attire are plenty good for the bars and non-clubs.
Beach gear is perfectly acceptable during daylight hours. Dressing
while actually on the beach is optional.
It's All Greek to Me
Most likely, the only familiar parts of the Greek language are the
symbols on the sides of buildings recognizable from the fraternity and
sorority houses at college. Now, just try putting that limited knowledge
into a translating a road sign.
Road signs aren't
much help, so go with your soul.
Normally, PubClub.com recommends travelers at the very least learn
a few words in the native language out of respect to the people one
meets and the country being visited. But with its symbols and the fact
that the alphabet letters don't always correspond to their distant cousins
in English, the Greek language is so difficult to understand, the effort-to-rewards
ratio simply does not calculate.
Fortunately, English is spoken freely and the Greeks will not at all
be insulted by one's lack of local linguistic skills. Say "please" when
asking for something and "thank you" when receiving it and their response
will be the same as if you studied under Plato.
Plus, on the islands all the signs one would care to read are written
in English.
About the only Greek word visitors need to know is Giasou (pronounced
Yaas-er). It means "Cheers!"
Where are all these People From?
Everywhere. Greece, attracts people from every corner of the globe.
It's even possible to meet people from countries you didn't even know
existed.
Everyone outside of the shopkeepers and hotel operators are on holiday,
and this magnifies the already plentiful social opportunities. Everyone
is there to meet other travelers and to party. Period. Typical conversations
are comprised of the three main questions: "When did you arrive? How
long are you here for? What other islands have you visited?"
Currency
Greece has, unfortunately, gone over to the Euro. For nostalgia sake,
we'll take a moment to talk about the drachma, or drach for short. It
is sometimes designated as dr, although more frequently just as the
number figure ("beer 500," for instance). There are a few coins but
mainly bills in 200, 500 and 1,000, plus the annoying little 100 designations.
Pubs, clubs and restaurants rarely accept credit cards so be sure
and have plenty of cash on hand. Fortunately, ATM machines abound, providing
that sweet sensation of bills pouring out of the dispenser with the
touch of a few buttons. Money exchange offices are plentiful, but with
bank rates available through instant cash machines they are pretty much
a thing of the past.
Temperatures
- March-May (Spring): 65 F
- June-August (Summer): 90 F
- September-November (Fall): 75 F
- December-February (Winter): 55 F
Time Zone
Greece is GMT +2
When to Go
Here's the real drag. To experience Greece to the max, the time frame
is pretty much limited to June and July. In August, the islands have
more Italians than Italy, particularly Mykonos. Prices increase 10-15
percent, the tavernas are overcrowded and the Greeks become edgy because
they view the Italians as a being pushy.
There are plenty of good times to be had during the "fringe" months
of May and September, though the number of lively bars is significantly
reduced from the high season. Prices are about 10-20 percent cheaper
than in June and July and the weather is still excellent.
In fact, the weather is as accommodating as the Greeks. The islands
are bathed in humidity-free sunshine and evenings bring with them a
cooling sea breeze. It won't rain again until November, so leave the
umbrella at home. Some may find the water a bit chilly, especially upon
initial impact. PubClub.com, on the other hand, finds it refreshing,
especially on a hot day or as a good wake-up from a nap or hangover.
The WC
A few words about the bathrooms are in order. First, they are coed.
In bars, restaurants and on the beach, men and women share a common
room with a sink, soap and paper towels. The actual facilities are in
the stalls, which are also coed (but only for one at a time).
If this seems unsettling, deal with it. In fact, take advantage of
it. The "lobby" area of the W.C. is a great place to meet members of
the opposite sex.
Finally, there is the toilet paper issue. The Greek pipe system was
not designed to handle the loads of tourist that flock to its shores,
so flushing is limited to liquids only. Used paper is to be placed in
a trash can by the toilet. This is the case even in hotels. Trust us,
it's not as gross as it seems.
 Next
stop on the Party Bus: The Bartender
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