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The Florida Keys
A Mile Marker-by-Mile Marker
Driving Guide to Key West
Beginning to end:
Between these mile markers are many attractions in the upper Keys.
The key to maximizing the Key West experience
is not contained in some local bar or in a moment at sunset on Mallory
Square. Instead, it is located some 100 miles to the northeast at the
beginning of what is known as the Overseas Highway, a scenic two-lane
road with water on both sides, 43 bridges and enough diversions to properly
delay any trip to the Conch Republic.
For it is here that "Keys Disease," that infectious virus
that temps every visitor to the southernmost city in the United States
to stay far longer than originally intended, first takes hold in the
system.
Oh, it's possible to fly into Key West and its Caribbean outpost of
an airport, but to do so misses so much of what makes this part of the
world so special. So, too, is the shame for those who zoom down from
South Florida without stopping to enjoy the many treasures along the
way.
This area is knows as the Florida Keys, and it's best enjoyed at a
leisurely pace in a convertible. It has bars, restaurants, an underwater
hotel and more dive shops than Los Angeles has fingernail salons. Sports
Illustrated once sent its models here for its annual swimsuit issue,
and now that have we validated our point, it's time to make our way
– slowly – to Key West.
Mile Markers
 Numbers
such as these serve as landmarks.
Reference points are not the little towns that dot the Florida Keys,
but instead the mile markers which line the highway. Without them, finding
the proper places to stop would be virtually impossible. Mile markers
are designed as MM, such as MM88.
The Beginning – and the Beer Huggies
The route to the Keys begins at the end of the Florida Turnpike in
the tiny community of Florida City. It's a good place to stretch the
legs after the hour-plus drive from Miami. Jack's fishing store
on the right is a bait-and-tackle shop that has the best beer huggies,
those rubber devices that fit around cans to keep beverages cold.
Just past Florida City, there's a sign pointing to the left for Card
Key Sound Road. Turn there. The road winds through an authentic
Florida habitat with mangroves, pelicans, etc.
Longnecks and Fish Sandwiches
Authentic Florida
fare is served at MM102 at the Fish House restaurant.
First among the many places to eat along the way is Alabama Jack's.
It comes up on the right just before the big old bridge along Card Key
Sound Road. It's a long-neck beer kind of place right on the water that
serves a tasty fish sandwich. The hard-core biker crowd can be a bit
fishy, too, especially on sunny weekend afternoons, so approach with
caution.
From there, make a right at the flashing light to get headed back to
Key West.
At MM 102, the amicable staff at the Fish House serves true
Florida fare, which grilled or fried seafood. The Fish House is one
of the few restaurants that gets its fish fresh off the boats (most
of the others get theirs from distributors). The broiled yellowtail
fish sandwich is so fresh it practically swims to your mouth.
Key Largo
Key Largo is straight out of a movie; scenes from the 1948 film of
the same name starring Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall and Edward G.
Robinson were shot here. At MM100, the landmark to another Bogart
movie is on display, the steamboat from "The African Queen."
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and the adjacent
Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary make this area a haven for snorkelers
and divers. True enthusiasts can spend hours exploring life beneath
the land without worrying about running out of air because, in a twist
of Keys creativity, they can spend the night underwater.
For a room with
a view, Jules' Lodge is unbeatable.
Jules' Undersea Lodge (305-451-2353) is the world's only underwater
hotel. Guests dive 30 feet to their room, located in the Emerald Lagoon.
Each room comes with a true ocean view – out of a port window.
Dinner of fresh lobster and fish is delivered by a diver. The rooms
are fully equipped with a TV, VCR, air conditioning, showers, a stereo
and a fully stocked galley. Guests are free to dive in the lagoon with
its replica of a wrecked Spanish galleon.
Prices are $350 per person per night ($300 for groups of six or more).
The hotel also offers three-hour visits, which includes unlimited access
to the lagoon for certified divers, for $60. Now that's the way
to relax on the way to Key West
MM88/MM84
 The
Mile Marker 88 restaurant serves authentic Florida food (fresh
and fried seafood) in an ultra-friendly Keys style.
At MM84 sits the crown jewel of the Keys drive.
The Holiday Isle Tiki Bar in the town of Islamorda is a must-stop.
It has "tourist trap" written all over it, but is a perfect
rest stop. Swimming, jet skiing and other aquatic adventures await on
its dock. And who can argue with the house drink specialty, the "Pain
in the Ass," a swirled combination of a pina colada and rum rummer.
There's a hotel on the property, just in case one has too many pains
to continue driving.
Just across from the Tiki Bar is the Whale Harbor. The food
is average at best, but the bar is a good change of pace from the Holiday
Isle.
MM82
Two miles further down the road sits Lorelei's, the best place
in the Keys to watch the sunset. It's nearly always crowded, primarily
with locals, who enjoy sitting outside having cocktails next to the
water.
Locals flock to
Lorelei's for sunsets, food and drink.
At MM80, Papa Joe's is another stop for Florida-style cuisine.
MM60
The tastiest conch fritters on are found at the Grassy Key Dairy
Bar. Wash them down with a cold beer or rum drink at the tiki bar.
It's near the Crocodile Road Kill Cafe, a watering hole worth
a visit just because of its name and to grab a unique t-shirt.
Seven-mile Bridge
At about MM50 is the Seven Mile Bridge, the most scenic part of the
trip. This "Keys connector" rises high above the land to expose
expansive views of the water on each side – the Gulf of Mexico
to the west (right, on the way to Key West) and the Atlantic Ocean to
the east.
The Seven Mile Grill offers good food and drink and just across
the highway at MM32 on a side road is another bar/grill called the No
Name Pub. At MM20 is Mangrove Mama's, a cool bar with excellent
food served in a tropical setting. Sunday nights, it's got the best
reggae band in the Keys. It's only a 20-mile drive from Key West, so
much of the Sunday crowd is from the Conch Republic.
Last Stop
Still hungry? Bobalu's Southern Cafe, is a family-operated road
house at MM8.
After that, it's a straight shot into Key West.
 Ride
the Party Bus to Key West!
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