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The Baja Experience –
Lower Baja!
Lower Baja is inexpensive,
inspirational and ideal for casual camping.
Continuing on our journey, we pick up
our Experience from Bahia de Los Angeles:
About 130 km south of the Bahia de Los Angeles junction is Gurrero
Negro ("black warrior"). It's a large town by the area's
standards and separates north and south Baja. There's a a time change
to Mountain Time; this is important to note when making reservations
with a boat captain.
There's a large army base here and a somewhat intimidating checkpoint
staffed by young soldiers. The soldiers are friendly but speak no English.
Offering them a cold soda as they thoroughly inspect the vehicle goes
a long way toward getting travelers back on your journey. Most fruit
is be confiscated. Drivers are required to pay 10-20 pesos to spray
tires with some type of bug spray; be sure and pay only what is stated
on the receipt.
Gurrero Negro is the first stop for the migrating gray whales (December
thru March). It's impossible to go more than a block in the town without
finding your way into Scammon's Lagoon, where boats ranging from
20-foot pongas to a 40-foot double-decked cruisers take visitors out
for close looks and even closer encounters with the whales.
Pongas offer the most personal experiences. The whales have virtually
no fear of human contact and often come right up to the boats. Sometimes,
mother whales even nudge their calfs toward a boat; they seem to enjoy
being petted. Cameras are a must here, but keep them in a zip-lock bag
or use a disposable water-resistant model because there's a lot of splashing
that occurs here. Unless your name is Cousteau, you can't put so much
as a toe in the water – there is no diving, snorkeling or
even swimming – but this is still is a true rush.
Trips last 1-2 hours and cost 400 pesos. Captains are licensed and
strictly regulated. There is a small commercial airport in the area
but with no direct service from Los Angeles or any other major city
the best way to get here is to drive (it's 700 km from Tijuana).
The experience is good enough to last a lifetime, yet just 140 km to
the south awaits another prize The lovely town of San Ignacio, sits
like a a true oasis in the middle of a desert setting. It has date trees,
palm trees and plenty of shade, plus a lovely town square and an old
mission. It's a perfect place to take a travel break for a few minutes
or an evening. There are a a few hotels in town, as well as and places
to pitch a tent for a few pesos a night.
The town is also close to Baja's other whale breeding lagoon, Laguna
Santa Ignacio. It's a 100-km bumpy ride along a washboard dirt
road to get there, but the experience can surpass that of Scammons Lagoon.
It's also possible to arrange for a vehicle and driver from one of the
small hotels. This is a relatively cushy all-day option in a four-wheel
drive vehicle.
As the case at Scammon's Lagoon, touching of the whales and of calves
are often encouraged by the mammals. There's no real need to try and
experience both whale lagoons. If Gurrero Negro has satisfied one's
whale desire, there's not much difference in here than there so unless
one is really into the experience, it's not necessary to visit both
places.
 From
here, it's a 73-km journey up and down steep mountain terrain to Santa
Rosalia. This beautiful city was once a very prosperous mining community
inhabited by Europeans. Evidence of their existence exists through the
abandoned equipment. For those looking to get to mainland Mexico, this
is a place to catch a ferry; permits for vehicle transport must be purchased
in northern Baja. Fishing enthusiasts thrive in the prime game fishing
territory of San Lucas Cove. Dorado and yellowtail test anglers'
expertise.
A pleasant 60 km drive away is Mulege (pronounced Mo-la-hay),
a nice little town that has all the supplies one needs to travel. It's
main attraction, however, is the La Serinadad Hotel. La
Serinadad is Baja's version of a Caribbean outpost, a place where local
characters and modern-day pirates come to spend their renegade pesos
on Saturday nights.
They come here for the weekly pig roast, an all-you-can-eat barbecue
and tequila party (150 pesos). Many arrive via the non-commercial airport
next door then fly out in the middle of the night. The hotel, which
has been around forever, has a lovely swimming pool and guests are serenaded
by top-notch mariachi bands. It's a haven for RV travelers. The town
itself is small, quaint and friendly with rentals available for kayaks,
scuba diving equipment, bicycles and ATVs.
People spend their
renegade pesos at the Saturday night pig roast.
It's only one stop away from one of the best beaches in all of Baja,
Bahia de la Conception (Conception Bay). Some call it the most
beautiful spot in all of Baja. It's large cove after large cove, just
begging for a tent or sleeping bag to be put down next to its warm,
aqua-colored crystal-clear water. It costs but 30 pesos for an overnight
spot one of these beaches.
The calm water is dotted with people lounging in beach chairs with
a cold drink at hand. There are dozens of beaches from which to choose;
pick one and turn to it off the main road. Snorkeling is possible, but
the bay is too fished out to spot much marine life. There are no services
here, but in the morning local vendors come by to sell blankets, ice,
tamales and even take requests for next-day delivery. Just like FedEx!
Beautiful Bahia
de la Conception is the perfect place to park the RV.
It's primarily a place for retired people and beach bums. Canadian
snowbirds flock here with their generators and satellite dishes to set
up camp for weeks at a time in the winter. Everyone is laid-back and
friendly, a anyone walking down the beach with a drink in hand is sure
to inspire a conversation.
Spring and fall is the best time to visit. Winters can be windy and
cool and the summer is hot with too many bugs.
Some years ago, a gringo and his wife build a hotel, camping ground,
restaurant and cantina on a lovely part of the bay. It's called Mike's
Buena Ventura. Word has it that Mike and wife have have since split
up; she took the hotel and he the restaurant and cantina. Mike's offers
a full menu and ice-cold beer and if it's hot outside – almost
a given any time of the year – this air-conditioned spot with its
satellite TVs is like a little piece of heaven.
The next big stop, 80 km from Mike's, is the city of Loredo
(Lore-ed-o). It's big, at least by by Baja standards and has an international
airport (La Paz has the only other such airport on the eastern seaboard).
As a result any frequent travelers keep their RVs and campers parked
here and fly in and out of Loredo.
Built around a small marina, Loredo has an old-town Mexican charm but
with all the conveniences of a much larger city. That's because it tried
unsuccessfully to be another Cabo but never quite caught on with the
masses.
This probably preserved the town's immense character. It has restaurants,
bars and one whorehouse, The Pent House, which legend has it boasts
but three women: the fat one, the ugly one and the one that makes all
the money. There's nudist colony on the way and it possesses one of
the few nude beaches in all of Mexico.
Loredo, which just celebrated the week-long "303rd fiesta and
is home to the oldest mission in Baja," has good haunts for food
and drink. Cafe Ole' is the best restaurant bargain in town,
especially for breakfast, while the outdoor bar at Chilly Willie's
on the water is the place to go for late afternoon cocktails. Dolphins
can occasionally be seen playing in the water. The otherwise unspectacular
Mike's Bar has the most incredible collection of whale and dolphin
photos and a whale skeleton hangs from the ceiling.
Game fishing in Loredo is among the best in the world. We like Captain
Pedro Mayoral Davis; his boat is "The Lupita." Keep this
phone number handy (0011-52-113-0851) because half the town seems to
be named Pedro Davis. Super pongas are 1,700 pesos a day, including
the captain.
Back on the road: Just past Loredo, Highway 1 turns inland to the major
town of Villa Insurgentes. If it's December-March continue to
Puerto Lopez Mateos for some more whale watching. Otherwise,
head to La Paz.
La Paz ("the peace" in English) is a large town on
the Eastern bay (the Bahia de La Paz). It has major supermarkets, traffic
signals, auto mechanics and an international airport. For those wanting
to spend a little time here, head to the waterfront for its restaurants
and shops. The patrons are mostly locals, fishermen and people passing
through on their way to somewhere else.
One of La Paz's most famous landmarks is a large structure that is
supposed to symbolize two doves but looks more like the tales of a pair
of whales. At any rate, La Paz is also a jumping-off point for vehicle
ferry rides to Mazatlan on the Mexican mainland. Permits must be obtained
in advanced at the border.
Yet its crown jewel is Tecelote Beach. It's a long, sandy beach
about 20 minutes from town that has three restaurant/bars right on the
beach. Some of the chairs are placed right in the water and with late-afternoon
happy hours, it's a perfect piece of paradise.
La Paz is also the gateway to the East Cape, a 50-km area of
natural wonders. The East Cape is a haven for kayaking, snorkeling
with sea lions and hiking. It is also one of the world's richest fishing
spots and in winter attracts windsurfers from all over the globe. Schools
of hammerheads gather in the East Cape, making it a thrilling experience
for adventurous scuba drivers. Tours for these adventures run out of
La Paz.
The East Cape is accessed by continuing south from LaPaz on Highway
1; there's an option a half-hour later to take Highway 19 to the Pacific
coast of Baja, where it's a bit warmer in the winter.
The town in the heart of the East Cape is Las Barralis. At the
Highway 1 turnoff that leads here is the East Cape Smokehouse. Located
in a small shopping center, it sells smoked fish for 50 pesos a pound.
The smoked yellowfin tuna is outstanding and is perfect for campers
because it's unnecessary to refrigerate smoked fish. The shopping center
also has a bakery, gym and cantina. So one work out can eat, and drink
all in the same area!
One of the best places to stay, either for camping or in its tiny hotel,
is the family-run Martin Verdugo Trailer Park on the beach. It
has a swimming pool and an outdoor bar overlooking the water that is
quite popular at sunset time.
The next destination is San Jose Del Cabo at the bottom center
of the peninsula. This is a "poor man's Cabo" but why go there
when the real thing is less than a half-hour away?
Congratulations, you are in Cabo San Lucas. It's "land's
end" where the Sea of Cortez meets (also known as the Gulf of California)
the Pacific Ocean (PubClub has a separate report on Cabo).
Driving out of Cabo, don't retrace your steps. Go up Highway 19; a
nice 40-minute drive later is KM 59; look for the arch with a sign leading
to Pedrito RV Park. Turn left on the good dirt road.
It's about a five-minute drive to one of the best surf spots in all
of North America. Wave-riders camp on the beach for 30 pesos a night,
sleep in beach cabanas for 400-500 pesos or stay in the RV park with
full hookups for 150 pesos.
The real prize – or surprise – is a lovely restaurant and
cantina. The food is good and reasonably priced, it has a satellite
dish, swimming pool and a very nice Friday happy hour. Water is safe
to drink from the tap – something of a modern miracle in Mexico.
All this is located really in the middle of nowhere.
But who cares when the surfing is so spectacular and the sunsets are
even better? Whales can be seen from the shore (Nov.-March). This is
a great place to recover from the revelry of Cabo (at least for those
able to limit the time they spend in the cantina). English is readily
spoken and it's a very dog-friendly place. For any questions about this
place, just see James.
Back on Highway 19, about 7 km to the north is the terrific town of
Todos Santos ("all saints"). It's famous for its artisans
with many crafts and workshops. Blankets, pottery and more are available
here. (Frankly, it's the same stuff that's sold anywhere else in Mexico,
but at a higher price. We owe this to the fact that these people are
"art-ists.").
Pesos are well spent at Shut Up Franks, which serves one of
the best burgers in all of Baja. Wash it down with a cold beer
while enjoying the satellite TVs. Other good stopping spots are Restaurant
Margarita with its 100-peso Sunday champagne brunch and The Santa
Monica with its authentic Mexican fare.
 Next
stop on the Party Bus: Cabo San Lucas!
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