The ancient city is the Gateway to Greece and was the host city for the successful 2004 Summer Olympic Games. Well, it’s only fitting, considering the Games were created here.
Most travelers traditionally use Athens as a gateway to the islands. First-timers spend two or three days in the ancient city, see the sites, complain about the congestion then head to the islands. After a couple of days on, say, Mykonos, they look at each other and say, “Why did we spend so much time in Athens instead of coming here first?”
To many, spending time in Athens is like being in downtown Los Angeles. It can seem no different than any other big city. And while it’s true that the greatest riches of Greece are on its islands, Athens is a very beautiful place in its own right.
Spending time in Athens demonstrates why things are the way they are on the islands. The late-night mentality, the seemingly chaotic method of movement of the people and kiosks selling beer, water, soda, cigarettes and other small items are on nearly every streetcorner.
For the best of Athens, get away from the tourist-heavy city center and the Plaka and instead explore the area around the port of Pireaus.
Arrival and Getting Around In Athens
The Olympics prompted Athens to build a sparkling new airport. That may be hard to believe for those who visited the old airport, but it’s true.
The problem is the location, far outside of town. It’s about 45 minutes to Plaka by car. The new Metro (see more, below) goes almost right to the gates. However, when riding, get all the tickets you need in advance, one for each transfer. Police ticket people on the platforms for not having enough tickets, an effective way of putting 10 Euros in somebody’s pocket (it take two tickets from Syntagma Square, for instance). The train runs all over the city and also to the port of Pireaus where ships go to the islands.
For groups of travelers, taxis are a quick and and not outrageously inexpensive method of getting around Athens. Just be sure and negotiate the rate before departure. The same applies to rideshare apps.
It’s a good hour-plus into town from the new Athens airport. Budget travelers should use the new train or bus; four public bus routes serve exclusively the airport, connecting the greater area of Athens and Piraeus. For those staying in Athens instead of headed to the islands, the stop at Syntagma Square is a centrally located location. From that point, it’s a five-minute walk to the youth hostel and the Plaka.
There’s aforementioned Metro, which is clean, safe and efficient. Look for the letter M and stations are clearly marked with signs in blue, white and green with the M. Don’t even consider renting a car. NOTE: For those coming from Pireaus, the train station is directly across the street from the port entrance. It’s not marked and what few signs are posted are in Greek. Getting there requires navigating six lanes of a very busy street with no crosswalk. There is, fortunately, a median though it’s narrow and crowded.
Currently, the Metro from the airport is in combination with the bus system as follows: Metro line 3: “Ethniki Amina” station – Express bus E94. Metro line 2 & 3: “Syntagma” station – Express bus E95. Athens – Piraeus Electric Subway: “Stadium of Peace and Friendship” station – Express bus.
Besides Syntagma Square, the Metro’s other main stop is the Acropolis which, during the Metro’s construction, uncovered ancient ruins. The Metro has a web site; be patient, though (this trait comes in handy in Greece).
Athens has opened a new airport, Eleftherios Venizelos International, and while PubClub.com has not yet flown there, it has to be an improvement over its predecessor. Actually, there were two airports, one for international travel and one for domestic departures. Illogically, they were not located anywhere near each other; buses and taxis provided service between the two. We trust the new airport has improved on this situation (although we will miss the ice-cold beers for 300dr. served at a little stand outside the old domestic terminal). Interestingly, this is where handball, fencing and even kayaking and canoeing took place during the Olympics).
For those heading out to the islands by boat, cold beers await your arrival at the ferry port, Piraeus (Pie-ray-us). Airplane arrivals and ferry departures are not at all coordinated, so the wait could be a few hours. Fortunately, the beers are cheap and chilly. If taking a taxi, be sure and specify Pireaus as your destination; otherwise the driver may misunderstand your instructions.
Athens Dining, Shopping and Neighborhoods
Athens is a sprawling city, a massive maze of confusing streets, zipping traffic moving at high speeds in all directions and containing signs in those Greek symbols that render any college fraternity education useless. So, stick to these places.
Use Syntagma Square as the central gathering spot and landmark. There’s a changing of the guard (or evzones) who wear kilts, big white shirts and large pom-poms on their shoes. Syntagma Square is near a popular hostel and across the street from the regal Grande Bretagne Hotel, whiere a drink in its Winter Garden bar runs about 12 Euros but provides for great people-watching. The rooftop restaurant has stunning views of the Acropolis, which is illuminated at night. Around the corner is the National Garden, a pleasant enough place to spend a few minutes to an hour.
A few paces down Ermou Street is Monastiraki Square, where locals – and not tourists – dine Gree-style at tavernas (which is to say they eat a lot, drink even more and treat this like a rare night on the town).
Another nearby area is Kolonaki Square has upscale shops, galleries, restaurants and sidewalk tavernas. Dining is typical European, which is to say late by American standards.Nothing before 10 p.m. and by 11 the restaurants are swarming with patrons.
As for what to expect with Greek food, stuffed grape leaves (dolmades), and tzatziki (a yogurt, cucumber and garlic dip served with pita or white bread) and Greek salads (huge chunks of tomato, cucumber, onions and olives sprinkled with feta cheese) make for great appetizers. Main courses can be lamb, stuffed tomatoes, soulvaki (huge chunks of meat on a skewer with vegetables and served with rice) or moussaka (the Greek version of lasagna). Seafood is available everywhere, particularly fish.
The Greeks attribute olive oil to their long and healthy life expectancy and a result, dishes are swimming in the stuff. Greek coffee will turn American’s heads sideways and the only alternative is Sanka. Bakeries offering meat and cheese-filled pastries are plentiful and family-run gyro shops are the taco stands of Greece
Greek wines are enjoyable but avoid the Restina. It has an aftertaste that will last a lifetime. And contrary to popular belief, Greeks rarely drink ouzo.
Athens Pub Clubbing – Bars & Nightlife Guide
The hidden jewel of Athens – at least to most travelers – is the area along the beach in Glyfada near the old airport and on Possidonos Ave. In fact, the entire area from the port of Pireaus to the old airport is lined with waterfront dance clubs, many of which are indoor-outdoor. Note they don’t start cranking until midnight and are open until 4 a.m.
Their names change each summer, but often the locations remain the same. For instance, last year’s hottest club is gone but one of the best ones this summer, Sabbia, is located in the same building. This summer’s top club is Paradizzio in the Varkiza area. It brings in top deejays from London, New York and other major cities and holds a whopping 3,000 night owls. Prime is another popular dance spot.
Yet another hot club for the “in” crowd is the 2,000-capacity Envy in Voula. It’s always crowded with a young crowd.
These Athens clubs usually require slacks for men, and 15-20 Euro cover charge (drinks prices are in the same range) but once you swallow the tab, the beachside atmosphere is quite riveting. Any taxi driver knows the location of these clubs.
A more casual alternative – and certainly a great option for those with a few hours to spend between ferry departures and a flight – are a pair of harbors a safe, 15-minute walk from Pireaus. (Just head straight out towards the tallest building and turn right eight lights later on Ger. Lambraski at the Levis store). Surrounding a beautiful harbor area are a series of cafes and restaurants and clubs.
For tasty food in a friendly atmosphere, the Collection Barbecue Caffe serves grilled meats with ice-cold draft beer and rock music supplied by a hip deejay. The top club in the area is Ttassagiloui.
The Metro goes there and nine cruise ships will serve as hotels during the Olympics. This is the most “Greek Islands” atmosphere in all of Athens – small stands selling light snacks and beverages (and yes, beer), an endless buzz of mopeds zipping through the streets and a hip casualness to the whole place.
There are also a few clubs around the Plaka and also a pretty good local scene around the corner from the Athens Hilton. Pick the ones with the most activity, although some have a locals-only policy.
Just be sure and avoid these tourist rip-off bars in Athens.
Athens’ Ancient Sites
The Acropolis, which is not actually a site but a term for the highest point in the city, is the centerpiece of Athens’ history. We will spare all the details, leaving that to other web sites or blogs catering more to your parents, but the centerpiece is the Parthenon; also check out the Acropolis Museum. Visitors must now buy a ticket that also includes, among other places, the Roman Forum, Theater of Dionysos and Temple of Olympian Zeus. Due to overtourism, visiting the Acropolis also now requires an advance reservation to visit it.
At the base of the Acropolis is the Plaka, a touristy area and about the only place in Greece where they still smash plates. Prices reflect the clientele, but you can get a decent meal and have a few drinks at one of the many outdoor tavernas while watching the comings-and-goings of other travelers. This is about the only place in Greece where they still break plates (shot glasses are another thing).Afterward, it’s worth cruising through the lighted streets for some shopping or browsing. The official Olympics souvenir shop is located there.
A 15-minute walk from Plaka is the National Garden, worthy of a look and perfect for a picnic (there are several grocery-type stores in the area and a few in the Plaka). The National Garden is adjacent to Syntagama Square where, if lucky, you will witness a traditional changing of the guard.
At the far entrance to the garden, off Vasileos Konstaninou Street, is Athens Stadium, which brings forth visions of past Olympians running for glory. There’s a nice little taverna there, as well. It’s close to another ruin, the Temple of the Olympian Zeus.
The Weather In Athens
When it comes to temperature, don’t sweat it. Oh, Athens can be hot, but it is in the heart of the Mediterranean climate, which means no humidity and sometimes cool nights.Daytime temperatures will are in the 90s and it’s warm and sweaty, especially for those lugging luggage. But it’s not be sweltering.
Hydra, A Place To Visit Outside Athens
A fun place to visit outside of the city is the small island of Hydra, accessible by ferry (four hours, Û.10). Navigable only by foot or donkey, Hydra– pronounced Eeed-ra – provides much more of a true Greek atmosphere than the tourist-pounded Cyclades. There’s a couple of tavernas and bars on the waterfront, but the real prize is the disco at the top of the hill that features an open-air dance floor. The drunken walk down the hill can be quite challenging, but that’s all a part of life on the Greek islands. Hydra is a good place for a one-night stand.
Next Stop On The PubClub.com Greece Party Bus: Mykonos!