By Kevin Wilkerson, PubClub.com Greek Island Blogger
The lucky soul who coined the phrase “not a worry in the world” was probably on an island in Greece when he said it.
Island life is a utopian existence. This is the land of white-washed buildings and deep blue seas. The contrast makes for stunning photographs that are unmistakably Greece.
Yet Greece’s beauty is more than skin deep. When it comes to the pace of the islands, Greece is a carbon copy of the Caribbean (except that all the beaches are topless). The need to rush anywhere disappears the minute one steps onto the ferry dock and the large, slow ship departs for yet another destination.
Each island has a look and personality all its own. But the routine is remarkably identical, especially when it comes to PubCubbing. It’s standard procedure to adopt the “meet in the daytime/meet out at night” philosophy. Dinner isn’t eaten before 10, bars are empty until 11 and clubs don’t get going until around 1 a.m.
Island Hopping In The Greek Islands
The freedom to roam throughout the islands is what a trip to Greece is all about. If you don’t like one island, or feel the urge to check out a different one, simply pack up and go.
It’s that easy. Most hotels operate on a “two-night minimum and whatever” policy. So, if you wake up one morning on Mykonos and decide you want to party on Ios the next, simply inform the staff of your plans. Then again, if you have become as much a part of the decor as the neighborhood cat, then sign up for additional days. The only restriction is the “one-day rule,” which means you must give your intentions to stay or leave one day in advance.
This ripping off of the structural shackles makes for an incredibly free-spirited holiday. It’s common to leave a few friends behind on one island in order to explore another, only to meet up with them a few days later on yet another piece of paradise. Again, just as long as you make the flight home, you’re okay.
By Boat or by Plane? Getting Around The Greek Islands
In the words of the ultimate beach bum, songmaster Jimmy Buffett, go fast enough to get there, but slow enough to see.
The quickest method of island-hopping is by airplane, although not all destinations have airports. Flights take a half-hour to an hour and cost a semi-reasonable 100 or so Euros for a one-way ticket. If you are flying out of Athens, make a reservation in advance as those flights fill up quickly.
The planes are extremely crowded, the schedules are not well coordinated with other flights or the ferries, the airport lines move at the pace of a stalled moped and the seats are so tight you have sit like an ironing board to keep from getting squished. (Plus, our own Bartender still suffers from the aftertaste of hot orange juice served on a flight three years ago). So, if you choose to take the plane, you will suffer the pain.
A much more relaxed travel alternative is the ferry service.
These are not small, unstable craft, but huge liners the size of cruise ships. For around 3000 drachs (we still can’t get used to the Euro, but it’s about 10 of those things), depending on the length of the journey, ferries provide one of the cheapest forms of entertainment in the world – a leisurely cruise along the Aegean Sea.
Fill up the backpack with inexpensive beer or wine and a few snacks at the dock and enjoy a picnic. Feel free to stretch out on the deck benches for a relaxing nap. Try doing THAT on an airplane! The not-to-frequent stops at other ports provide a glimpse at numerous islands along the way; if one looks appealing, hop off and explore. Another ship will likely arrive later or the next day.
The ferries also provide outstanding social opportunities with fellow travelers. Drinking partners and even romances often begin on the high seas of Greece.
The ferries can be smelly in the belly while you wait for the rear door to swing down, the food is inedible and the toilets stink, but these are minor inconveniences compared to the rewards of the journey. Don’t flaffel (Australian slang for goofing around), however; the ferries rarely arrive on time, but when they are ready to go, they go in a hurry.
Estimated ferry travel times are as follows:
» Athens to Mykonos 7 hours (good for resting after a long journey)
• Mykonos to Ios 4 hours
• Ios to Santorini 1 hour
• Athens to Santorini Take the plane
Hydrofoils are available in some areas and take half the time. They are twice the price of the ferry and are considerably more noisy and bumpy. In fact, a journey of more than two hours will likely bring up thoughts like, “Why did I have that fourth Ouzo shot last night!?” Basically the hydrofoil is like taking an airplane on the water, sans the hot orange juice.
Use this rule of thumb when it comes to transportation: If the ferry can get you to your destination in five or less hours, use it. If not, fly like a bird. Use the hydrofoil only if a ferry or flight is not available.
Mopeds
If you arrive in Greece via the Athens airport, you will inevitably see a few folks headed home wrapped in bandages and hobbling around on crutches. These people rented mopeds. When operated properly, mopeds are the best method for touring the islands. They really don’t go fast enough – about 50 kph – to present any real danger by themselves, but put them on a curvy, narrow road with big trucks, speeding cars and fast motorcycles and they can turn an inexperienced rider into a human caution flag.
Mopeds can be rented on virtually every street corner – shop around for the best price, usually about 15 Euros a day – with no scrutiny regarding the renter’s riding experience or skill (or lack thereof). There are no lessons, no explanation of the traffic rules and no road test. Just plunk down your drachmas (er, Euros), leave a credit card for insurance purposes and head off to explore the shores. The roads are curvy, narrow, bumpy and often hug cliffs without the assistance of a guardrail, so use caution when riding.
Now that we’ve played mother by offering that fair (but friendly!) warning, go ahead and enjoy the ride. Mopeds are restricted only to your schedule, not the buses’ and allow for stopping and see things that those who rented cars are unable to even imagine. Some of the hills are so steep you may have to pedal like Fred Flinstone in order to make it to the top, but the reward will be an incredible view, a memorable moment or an isolated taverna.
Rooms to Let – Finding Accommodations In The Greek Islands
Only the geeks make reservations in Greece. There are few hotels and none of those chains which are so prevalent in other parts of the world (so forget about scoring any Marriott points on this trip). The bargaining nature of the countrymen make it much more economical to work the deal on the spot rather than to be locked into a fixed rate. Advance reservations severely limit the spontaneity of island-hopping and even in the busiest times, good, clean rooms can be found in minutes.
The Greeks see to this by sending hordes of locals to the docks and airports hawking “rooms to let.” These ancient sale representatives – quite often the owner, but sometimes a relative – carry a book of color photos showing off the “fine” accommodations they have to offer. They will even drive you to the locations for a no-obligations look.
This makes finding a room a snap. To further simplify matters, each island also has a tourist office at the airport or ferry dock, although hotels pay a fee for listings and the price, location and quality may not equal opportunities off the ferry or plane.
Rooms are clean, though sparse. Even in expensive hotels, beds are small, but you are not in Greece to get a mint under the pillow so don’t sweat it.
In most cases, you will have to turn a switch to ignite the hot water heater. Give it about 10 minutes before jumping in the shower and be sure to turn it off after everyone has finished. Otherwise, you will have to confront an angry landlord in the morning.
Once in the shower, you will be fighting with a hand-held contraption that serves as the shower head. It takes quite a bit of practice to keep from flooding the bathroom, so keep towels, toilet paper and clothes a safe distance away. Only in a few places have they thought to install a bracket to hold it in place so it can be used like an upright shower.
Hotels usually keep the passport of their guests; this not a problem. Hey, better them than you.
The Party Scene
Picture Spring Break, Carnival and New Year’s Eve all rolled into one. Add in some techno and that’s a typical day in Greece. This is a party place, no doubt about it. But for those romantic souls or others looking to escape the next coming of social and sexual revolution by hanging out on a remote patch of sand or quiet taverna, we just suggest scrolling past this section.
Life on the Greek Islands is wild. Every establishment has dancing on the bars and many encourage it by actually lifting patrons up on the counter. Wild music, wilder patrons and happy hosts that keep pouring the fun showers visitors with encouragement to leave the inhibitions at home. The happy guests glady comply.
This revelry goes back to the days when Socrates was throwing wild bashes under the guise of “scholarly gatherings.” The Greeks have been going at it ever since. Today, all we have to do is join the party. Actually, the Greeks pretty much just host the show. Aside from Mykonos on the weekend, about the only Greeks visitors encounter are at the hotel and owners of the tavernas (as well as they guy on the donkey you almost trampled with your moped).
The energy at night is dazzling. As many people dance on the bars, tables and chairs as on the floor. The music is blaring, lights are flashing and people are dancing and laughing everywhere. It’s not uncommon for sweat-stained clothes to be tossed around the bar.
Not surprisingly, these activities are accelerated by mass consumption of alcohol. While not unique to Greece, it does seem to reach new levels here.
People get so wasted, they must leave their room keys to the front desk when they go out because the hoteliers got tired of retreiving them all over town. This eliminated one party obstacle, but others remain. Steep hills and maze-like streets make for a confusing trip home at night. A few guidebooks recommend packing a small flashlight to help navigate the steep terrain after dark, but that can’t help anyone walk straight or keep from getting lost. It’s better to memorize the path back home before getting smashed.
Surprisingly few bars play Greek music or offer traditional dances. Instead, it’s an international party with the techno cranked up as high as the patrons.
Due to a strange Greek law, most of the dance clubs have cover charges (usually in the 5-10 Euro range) but it is refunded at the bar in the form of a “free” drink.
Beers are primarily Heineken and the tasty Amstel Lager but contrary to popular belief, ouzo is not in high demand. In fact, the Greeks hardly touch the stuff (they prefer Kamikazes). So what does that tell you about the “national drink?” Ouzo looks like seawater and tastes like Jagermeister but if you must insist on sampling it, mix it with 2/3 water.
Some of the bars put shot glasses in ice buckets on the counter. Patrons get the entire shaker and obtain the necessary number of glasses from the ice bucket. After consumption, the glasses are thrown to the ground in firm affirmation of the poison’s power.
Lost and Found – Finding Your Way Around The Maze Of The Greek Island Towns
Centuries ago, pirates used many of the islands as commerce raiding ports. On shore leave, they would go into the towns to rape and pillage. (In one case, they killed all the men on an island, leaving only women. The women eventually became frustrated and, well, one thing let to another. The island? Lesbos.)
While at first the Greeks could offer only their terrible Restina wine as a defense, they eventually resorted to constructing the towns into a maze of pedestrian streets designed to confuse the enemy. It worked. Unfortunately, it still works today. Modern-day pirates often become just as lost as their bygone shipmates.
Mykonos is especially confounding. Everything looks the same and rookies often spend hours looking like they are in a spinning class. Note the landmarks, such as a taverna or gyro shop and, most importantly, get to know the island while sober before doing those five tequila slammers and trying to figure it out at 5 in the morning. Then test your newfound skills by getting ripped at the closest bar.
Dress Codes
Shorts and t-shirts are accepted pretty much everywhere, but some dance clubs require a collar. Men may choose to wear jeans or even slacks, but with a lot of dancing in a crowded bar, things can get quite warm. For club footwear, opt for a hiking-style boots rather than tennis shoes. For women, sundresses are universally acceptable; spaghetti-string tops with shorts or a skirt is a comfortable option.Sandals and other casual attire are plenty good for the bars and non-clubs.
Beach gear is perfectly acceptable during daylight hours. Dressing while actually on the beach is optional.
It’s All Greek to Me
Most likely, the only familiar parts of the Greek language are the symbols on the sides of buildings recognizable from the fraternity and sorority houses at college. Now, just try putting that limited knowledge into a translating a road sign.
Normally, PubClub.com recommends travelers at the very least learn a few words in the native language out of respect to the people one meets and the country being visited. But with its symbols and the fact that the alphabet letters don’t always correspond to their distant cousins in English, the Greek language is so difficult to understand, the effort-to-rewards ratio simply does not calculate.
Fortunately, English is spoken freely and the Greeks will not at all be insulted by one’s lack of local linguistic skills. Say “please” when asking for something and “thank you” when receiving it and their response will be the same as if you studied under Plato.
Plus, on the islands all the signs one would care to read are written in English.
About the only Greek word visitors need to know is Giasou (pronounced Yaas-er). It means “Cheers!”
Where are all these People From – Greek Islands Tourists
Everywhere. Greece, attracts people from every corner of the globe. It’s even possible to meet people from countries you didn’t even know existed.
Everyone outside of the shopkeepers and hotel operators are on holiday, and this magnifies the already plentiful social opportunities. Everyone is there to meet other travelers and to party. Period. Typical conversations are comprised of the three main questions: “When did you arrive? How long are you here for? What other islands have you visited?”
Currency In The Greek Islands
Greece has, unfortunately, gone over to the Euro. For nostalgia sake, we’ll take a moment to talk about the drachma, or drach for short. It is sometimes designated as dr, although more frequently just as the number figure (“beer 500,” for instance). There are a few coins but mainly bills in 200, 500 and 1,000, plus the annoying little 100 designations.
Sone pubs, clubs and restaurants don’t accept credit cards so be sure and have plenty of cash on hand. Fortunately, ATM machines abound, providing that sweet sensation of bills pouring out of the dispenser with the touch of a few buttons. Money exchange offices are plentiful, but with bank rates available through instant cash machines they are pretty much a thing of the past.
Greek Islands Average Seasonal Temperatures
- March-May (Spring): 65 F
- June-August (Summer): 90 F
- September-November (Fall): 75 F
- December-February (Winter): 55 F
Greek Islands Time Zone
Greece is GMT +2
When to Go To The Greek Islands
Here’s the real drag. To experience Greece to the max, the time frame is pretty much limited to June and July. In August, the islands have more Italians than Italy, particularly Mykonos. Prices increase 10-15 percent, the tavernas are overcrowded and the Greeks become edgy because they view the Italians as a being pushy.
There are plenty of good times to be had during the “fringe” months of May and September, though the number of lively bars is significantly reduced from the high season. Prices are about 10-20 percent cheaper than in June and July and the weather is still excellent.
In fact, the weather is as accommodating as the Greeks. The islands are bathed in humidity-free sunshine and evenings bring with them a cooling sea breeze. It won’t rain again until November, so leave the umbrella at home. Some may find the water a bit chilly, especially upon initial impact. PubClub.com, on the other hand, finds it refreshing, especially on a hot day or as a good wake-up from a nap or hangover.
The WC – Bathrooms In The Greek Islands
A few words about the bathrooms are in order. First, they are coed. In bars, restaurants and on the beach, men and women share a common room with a sink, soap and paper towels. The actual facilities are in the stalls, which are also coed (but only for one at a time).
If this seems unsettling, deal with it. In fact, take advantage of it. The “lobby” area of the W.C. is a great place to meet members of the opposite sex.
Finally, there is the toilet paper issue. The Greek pipe system was not designed to handle the loads of tourist that flock to its shores, so flushing is limited to liquids only. Used paper is to be placed in a trash can by the toilet. This is the case even in hotels. Trust us, it’s not as gross as it seems.
Next stop on the Greek Island Party Bus: Athens
The well-traveled Kevin Wilkerson has been to Greece serveral times and has been a tour guide to the Greek Islands for groups of friends.