Things To Do, Where To Eat, Stay & All About Buccaneer Days
And then there is Two Harbors, far removed from even the relative hustle and bustle of the “other” Catalina Island. It’s a small harbor with a beautiful lagoon, palm trees, dirt roads (what suffices for a road here, anyway), few vehicles, a restaurant and a bar with dancing under the stars.
For those seeking the relaxed way of life, this is it.
Home of the buffalo milk, a potent cocktail topped with whipped cream that was created here, it is a haven for sailboaters, who like to make the 4-5 hour journey from L.A., or Orange County, and sometimes even San Diego.
It’s as casual as the dress code – sandals and shorts primarily – but do bring a jacket or sweatshirt for the cool nights, even in the middle of summer.
Ferry Service to Two Harbors
Boats provide the only path to Two Harbors. Ferries from Catalina Express run from Long Beach, San Pedro and Newport Beach ($74 R/T, Catalina Express, 800-481-3470).
Boat moorings are on a first-come, first-serve basis. Busy weekends – the Fourth of July and Buccaneer Days (see below) require arriving at least by Friday. Two smaller coves have additinal moorings and some boats can anchor in Two Harbors. The Harbor Master is, of course, the source for morrings and anchoring.
There’s only four ways to get between Two Harbors and Avalon. If you don’t have your own boat, that is. One is to take the ferry, though there is a very limited schedule between the two places.
There is the Catalina Safari (310-510-1550), a small bus that takes a two-hour journey through the dirt roads of the island’s interior.
Another is to hitch a ride on a boat with someone going in that direction (1 hour, plus and good luck!).
The third is to get arrested in Two Harbors. This involves a ride aboard the sheriff’s boat but it goes directly to the Avalon jail. Since the sheriff hates making this trip, it’s likely a very unpleasant journey.
Two Harbors Visitor’s Information
Two Harbors – an isthmus with the main harbor facing east toward the mainland – is a remote outpost of life, a simple but beautiful setting where after a couple of hours on shore everyone knows your name.
A favorite of Southern California sailboaters, it consists of a General Store, one restaurant and one bar (and it’s actually one in the same).
The only accommodations are camping and a 12-room B&B high on the hill, The Banning House (summertime rooms, $150). Most visitors stay on their boats. Clean public restrooms provide showers, which are a 50 cents per 90 seconds (guys, four quarters are plenty; ladies, if you are anything like The Blonde, you might want to hit bank before leaving home to stock up on the quarters, though there is a semi-reliable change machine).
So what’s the attraction?
For one, the beauty. The hills offer a stark contrast to the rich, blue water and hug a series of spectacular coves with scenic walking, running or bicycling along a dirt path on the edge of a cliff.
The water sports are as plentiful as one’s imagination (or budget): snorkeling, kayaking, fishing, jet skiing, hiking or just plain hanging out. The scuba diving is the best on the island, particularly in nearby Emerald Bay.
Since there are limited dining and drinking options (to say the least), everyone goes to the Harbor Reef Restaurant for lunch and/or dinner (excellent fish and steak dishes in the $25 range), then tear is up at the adjacent bar. Nothing fancy here; the bar is a roofless deck where people dance under the stars to a DJ or band. It’s a kicked-back good time and regulars go back time and time again.
Buccaneer Days On Two Harbors
Each year on first Saturday of October, the harbor fills up and becomes one of the biggest boat parties on the West Coast. It’s called Buccaneer Days, a pirate (and wench) festival that features Navy Grogs and people in costumes ranging from elaborate to t-shirts and bandanas with pirate logos.
The Harbor Reef bar is shoulder-to-shoulder when the noon ferry arrives and stays that way until the last one leaves at 11 p.m. All the mooring spots in the harbor are filled by Thursday afternoon and dingy wars start the celebration.
Adults dress in pirate costumes, say “Arrrg!” a lot and drink the bar dry of rum.
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