Go figure.
My go-to bars in Split, Croatia are an Irish bar and a Mexican Cantina. But hey, one has to go where one is comfortable, right, and I am most comfortable in O’Hara’s and Sanctuary.
O’Hara’s is a small pub with smiling bartenders and enough of a flow of pint seekers to keep my attention there. It also plays original MTV music videos (back when MTV actually played music videos) which I enjoy and the place known throughout Europe as a good place for a pint. Sanctuary is a cool, small cantina (there’s more seating outside) with a staff that – after a couple of margaritas, especially the special one from the native Canadian bartender – become instant friends.
That’s more than I can say for a few places I went to in my search of Split nightlife, which is along the waterfront and in the area of Palace, an area full of restaurants, shops and small bars. Take The Olive Tree, for example. This is a cool-looking little restaurant on the waterfront that turns into a small club. I popped in for a beer and immediately felt a weird vibe. For one thing, I had to order my drink from a I’m-too-important-to-spend-much-time-with-you waiter despite the fact I was sitting at the bar.
After a while, I noticed some attractive girls going up a set of stairs so I – in the non-stop bar investigating that is part of running PubClub.com – went up to see if for myself. After all, if I am to write about a place I must experience it myself. What I found was part lounge and part storage area, so I headed back down to my seat at the bar.
Well the I’m-too-important-to-spend-much-time-with-you waiter did not like this apparently flaunting of the unwritten rules of the place and scolded me by saying “the upstairs is CLOSED!” I later learned that it’s some type of special area that requires a wristband.
Still on the prowl for bar information, I noticed several people looking like they wee having fun in another restaurant-turned-bar on on the waterfront called Antique. As I attempted to step into the place, a doorman who was wider than the actual door stopped me and asked if I was on the “guest list.” I took this to mean he didn’t like my look or something and I was not getting in there even if I lied and told him my name was Croatian soccer star Luka Modric.
So now with me Antique off limits and apparently me being banned for life from Olive, I headed back into the winding streets of the Palace. I did find another Irish bar, one that was a lot more happening than O’Hara’s, called Harat’s Irish Pub. People were packed inside of it’s tiny space and standing outside of it drinking pints so this is a definite happening bar in Split. I had actually been there earlier the day and will give the biggest piece of advice yoyu can have in Split: DO NOT ORDER THE FISH & CHIPS at Harat’s. Suffice to say if they were tasteless then it would be an improvement. So, go there for a few pints instead.
The most rocking – hey-it’s-like-I’m-in-Mykonos bar I went to was Charlie’s, a party atmosphere just a few steps from Sanctuary. Although at midnight, the music stopped and people filed out to the point I was almost trampled. I later found out that all the bars in the Palace area (known as Old Town to locals) must now close at midnight. What!? In Europe!? Apparently only 305 Club gets to stay open later – until 4 – because the owners know the mayor.
I did check out a few other places, two of which are owned by the Olive people, including a really cool all-outdoor bar right by the water called Roof 68. It also owns Boiler, a beautiful restaurant that’s really more of a club.
For a nice view over the water and the waterfront, I found good beer at Caffe bar ST-RIVA. Look for the neon cocktails sign about halfway along the waterfront behind restaurant row and head up the stairs.
Keep in mind that nobody goes out bar hopping and clubbing in Europe until 11 p.m., so even happening bars are pretty quiet up to that time.
The Top Dance Clubs in Split
The big dance clubs in Split are Vanilla Club, the aforementioned 305 Club for Hip Hop & R&B and Central nightclub, which is open Midnight-5 a.m., and obviously not located in Old Town.