A Local Showed Me How To Bar-Hop Beyond Bourbon Street

St. Charles Street Car New Orleans — he St. Charles Ave. Street Car is a great way to visit the locals’ favorite bars. Photo: PubClub.com

Most visitors ride the historic St. Charles Streetcar to see the Garden District and Uptown New Orleans. I learned from a local that there’s another way to experience it — use the streetcar to bar-hop your way through some favorite neighborhood watering holes. So naturally, I had to try it, and I’m glad I did it.

One of the most famous streetcars in America is the St. Charles Streetcar. It is more than 150 years old and is a favorite tourist attraction.

Indeed, it’s a wonderful way to spend a few daylight hours in New Orleans. It treks patiently along beautiful St. Charles Ave., past the stately Old South-style houses, Tulane University and the zoo.

The cars also pass by some of New Orleans’ best bars and run 24 hours a day. So it’s possible to utilize this mechanical wonder to do some local sightseeing PubClub.com style! I found this out firsthad when a local offered to show me a couple of her favorite spots.

Our journey began just before lunch and I suggest you do the same. Catch it around St. Charles and Canal. In about half an hour, the car will make a 90-degree turn onto Carrolton Ave. This is the first stop (at Riverbend). It’s The Camellia Grill (Camilla’s to locals), which claims to be be the subject of Jimmy Buffet’s “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” It isn’t – it’s this place in Tortola, BVIs, but Jimmy did indeed love Camilla’s cheeseburgers.

This stop should take a couple of hours. While there, walk around the area, then jump back on the car to the end (about 15 more minutes). The rail line just ends, the car stops and all passengers must exit. The conductor then moves to the other end of the car, flips a few seats and viola!, the car is reversed and you’re on your way again.

Tell the conductor you want to stop at Superior Grill. If it’s Wednesday and you time it right (6ish), then you’re golden. If not, don’t worry. The Columns Hotel is only two blocks away and it’s a very good place to have a well-made drink and, most likely, have some interesting conversations with locals. It’s not a big-time party place but sometimes I like to immerse myself into the local culture and this requires going to mellow places. Bourbon Street will be waiting later with all it’s wildness.

Then there is the Mayfair Lounge. It’s a never-ending Mardi Gras scene here with all the beads in there and it’s great for cocktails and hearing stories about the storied former owner Miss Gertie (she was 92 when she died in 2022) at this true New Orleans dive. I actually got the privledge of meeting Miss Gertie during my visit.

I was a little suspect of the place at first because it looked like we were going into someone’s house. We emerged into what looked like a Mardi Gras junk drawer. There were beads and masks everywhere and I initially stopped to stare – the word “tacky” came immediately to mind – but not wanting to appear like a visitor and more importantly, not wanting to embaress my friend, I followed her to the bar. Behind it was an elderly woman and I was introduced to Ms. Gerty. I had met a New Orleans legend. I instantly felt privileged. People would go in the just to see her. She was certainly lively!

My friend told me that during the Mardi Gras parades, people would leave their spot at the parade go to see Ms. Gerty and have a quick drink. I could understand, why, too!

See what can happen in New Orleans when you get off Bourbon Street!?

Streetcars run every 15 minutes. At 10, it’s approximately every half hour and from midnight-6 a.m., it’s down to once an hour. If you just miss one, or get tired of waiting, simply go back to the bar. Or, if it’s the end of the night, have the bar call a taxi or use Lyft or Uber. St. Charles Ave., is generally safe, but small groups of inebriated girls should take caution and not wait on a car for more than a few minutes. Drinking is okay while waiting but is not allowed on the street cars.

The New Orleans street cars cost $1.25 per stop, so I suggest getting the $3 day pass called the Jazzy Pass (you can download its app here). Exact change is required if you pay as you board it.

The Nightlife Blogger is the bar columnist for PubClub.com, An award-winning journalist, Kevin Wilkerson has spent more than two decades covering bars, nightlife, destinations and events around the world – including New Orleans, obviously – always searching for the stories and experiences most travelers overlook.